Hey guys, I'm trying to remove my caliper brackets so I can get my rotors turned and I can't get the brackets off. I've tried everything I have up to my 3/8th impact and they won't budge. Is there anything I am doing wrong? Surly those bolts arn't reverse thread?

A 3/8 impact gun won't cut it, you need a 1/2 inch impact gun or breaker bar & socket to remove the front brake caliper bolts. Torque spec is 133 lb ft.
From the GM Service Manual:

Front Brake Caliper Bracket Replacement (J65, JL9) | Document ID: 913571
Removal Procedure

Caution: Refer to Brake Dust Caution in the Preface section.

Notice: Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from its mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.
Remove the caliper from the mounting bracket and support the caliper with heavy mechanics wire or equivalent. It is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper. Refer to Front Brake Caliper Replacement .
Remove the front brake pads.
Remove the caliper bracket bolts (2).
Remove the caliper bracket (1).

Installation Procedure



Important: To ensure the proper clamp load will be present when installed, it is imperative the threads on the brake caliper bracket bolts as well as the threaded holes in the caliper bracket are cleaned of all debris and inspected before proceeding with the installation.
Clean and visually inspect the threads of the caliper bracket bolts (2) and mounting holes in the bracket.
Apply THREADLOCKER, GM P/N 12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488) or equivalent, to the threads of the brake caliper bracket bolts (2).

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.
Install the caliper bracket (1) with the bracket bolts (2).

Tighten
Tighten the caliper bracket bolts to 180 N·m (133 lb ft).
Install the front brake pads.
Install the caliper. Refer to Front Brake Caliper Replacement .

For rear caliper bracket replacement, see Document ID: 1370959 in the Service Manual up top.

Spray it will PB blaster and use a breaker bar!

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Sometimes 2 wrenches is a trick I use to get more leverage if a breaker bar isn't available. Put the box end on the bolt head. Then take the 2nd wrench and place the box into the open end. Just be careful the you apply force straight keeping the wrenches aligned or it'll slip off.

DX on too many different ROMs to keep updating my signature - via Tapatalk

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Thanks guys, had to go grab a breaker bar from a friend and got the job done. Those things were tight.

Now here's another question. It seems that I have two different rotors on the left and right sides of the car. Could this be an issue? Here's a pic of the two rotors.



The one on the right is from the left side. I'm pretty sure this is the one that is warped. Does it look like a cheap after market replacement?

Looks like 2 different brands of rotors...nothing bad. You won't really tell if there warped by the naked eye. Best to have them both resurfaced...and paint the hub when u get it back or it'll rust.

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^I agree.

I wouldn't worry about the rotors being different. Get em both turned (resurfaced) and you should be fine.

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The one on the right has way less rotor thickness before the cooling fins, especially on the inside surface compared to the outside at least from looking at that picture, thus I'm guessing that is an aftermarket one, and a cheap one at that. You might not even want to resurface that one due to how little thickness would be left after resurfacing, heck the shop might not even allow it to be resurfaced due to going past min wear limit.

Since I don't cheap out on what stops a 3000+ lb vehicle, I'd go get 2 new rotors and not even mess with those ones based on A) very thin material on right rotor and even less after resurfacing so if it warped like that, being thinner will only cause it to warp again very soon B) different heating/cooling properties between left and right side causing pad bit and possible wear to be irregular (I'm anal about my brakes so this could drive me nuts) C) it's your braking system, being cheap here is not the place you want to skimp on.

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I thought the same thing, that's why I brought it up. I couldn't get them in today to get them turned so we will see tomorrow what the shop thinks and go from there.

If I do need to replace them, what is a good brand for rotors?

I've always used Wagner rotors and pads without any problems, for performance stuff I've always heard good things about this company: http://www.r1concepts.com/

If you have an Advance Auto Parts in your area, order your stuff through their website and save some cash: Advance Auto Parts

And there's also http://www.rockauto.com/