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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 3:33 pm 
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Alright. Got a question.

I replaced my front rotors with 11.8 inch cross drilled/slotted rotors and new pads (Both Powerstop brand). I also replaced my rear pads, but did not replace the rear rotors because I'm waiting until I get more money next week, if need be.

So, I "broke" both set of pads in, and there is a lot of difference in stopping power than before, however...they still grind sometimes. Like, as if my pads are shot to hell, and my rotors are screaming "NO" as if I need new pads. Strange thing is, like i said before, I had changed all of the new pads out, and even have new front rotors. I will say my OLD rear pads where...ugly. One of the pads was worn away diagonally. Yeah. Checking the rotor though, it seems fine.

Maybe it's because the rear rotors need changing? They don't grind a lot, but it is noticeable here and there.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 5:27 pm 
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you grease the backs of the pads? ceramics are notorious for squeaks and grinds after install

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 5:36 pm 
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z3r0 wrote:
you grease the backs of the pads? ceramics are notorious for squeaks and grinds after install


Yup. Got some better stuff from my local Autozone. None of the front or back pads came with any.

And I'm not sure if it's important, but damn my brakes are so much softer. Almost too soft. I have to press the pedal all the way to the floor to get a complete stop.

-- Wed Jul 20, 2011 4:50 pm --

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 6:27 pm 
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usually a quick bleeding will force out any air bubbles from any mishaps

also you said you broke the pads in, did you do the reset where you reverse like crazy and slam on the brakes?

my old gtp i just got fbody and it was spongy a nice 40 reverse and a quick slam on the brakes and she felt like she did before

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 7:20 pm 
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z3r0 wrote:
usually a quick bleeding will force out any air bubbles from any mishaps

also you said you broke the pads in, did you do the reset where you reverse like crazy and slam on the brakes?

my old gtp i just got fbody and it was spongy a nice 40 reverse and a quick slam on the brakes and she felt like she did before


lol no. I went about 50 in Drive and then stopped suddenly, but without stomping it.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 8:38 pm 
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Brakes usually take 100+ miles of stop and go driving to full break them in. I just did the pads on my GF's GP and it's been 250+ miles of driving on them and they are just now starting to firm up and feel like they should. As long as you greased up the contact points and don't have any air bubbles in the lines (if you haven't flushed your brake fluid in a few years though now would be a good time since old brake fluid collects moisture, moisture heats up, creates bubbles, then makes the pedal mushy).

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 8:57 pm 
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Planeboy18 wrote:
Brakes usually take 100+ miles of stop and go driving to full break them in. I just did the pads on my GF's GP and it's been 250+ miles of driving on them and they are just now starting to firm up and feel like they should. As long as you greased up the contact points and don't have any air bubbles in the lines (if you haven't flushed your brake fluid in a few years though now would be a good time since old brake fluid collects moisture, moisture heats up, creates bubbles, then makes the pedal mushy).


Hmm. I didn't know that.

Time to start driving more! :D

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 4:56 am 
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My new rotors make my sensors go nuts lol

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:22 am 
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I thought slotted pads always grind a bit.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 8:07 am 
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Spongy = air in lines for sure... Bleed em with a friend and they will firm up.

Grinding: hard to say... It could be just the ceramic pads... From what I understand they are alot harder than semi metallics = less brake dust.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 9:41 am 
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The slotted rotors will make a "grinding" sound as well. What you're hearing is absolutely normal.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 1:35 pm 
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The rear rotors are probably glazed so they don't stop as well as the new front rotors. It's a good idea to install new rear rotors then lightly sand the faces of the rear pads with sandpaper on a flat surface to clean them up. That will give the pads a better bite on the new rotors.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2011 7:53 pm 
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Don_Rome wrote:
The rear rotors are probably glazed so they don't stop as well as the new front rotors. It's a good idea to install new rear rotors then lightly sand the faces of the rear pads with sandpaper on a flat surface to clean them up. That will give the pads a better bite on the new rotors.


Good point.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 11:39 pm 
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for a break in cycle at work we do 6 60mph-0 panic stops in other words full bore braking with the ABS yelling for mercy. then we do 6 reverse stops from 20mph agina full bore panic stop with the ABS yelling

the pads smoke like ther eon fire but that is a good thing it's all the grease and depry being cleaned off and it means the pads are seated in to the rotors ware pattern

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