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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:28 pm 
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so ive been having the normal ABS issue as many people do... well i was told i had bad HUBS from my mechanic... so... i replaced all four just to be safe and at the time i had the money... well that didnt fix the problem so i took it to a different shop and they told me it was the Computer itself... sooo i sent it off to Cheap-ABS and got it rebuilt.. i have inspected all the wires that i can see and they all look fine...

Heres my question... i put the computer back on and all the lights came back on before i even left my driveway!!! Do i need to get any codes erased before the problem will go away??? or does this mean that i still have more issues?!?

ive been doing nothing but dumping money into this car for two years and its driving me crazy!!

THANX IN ADVANCE FOR ANY HELP YOU CAN PROVIDE...


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:32 pm 
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Normally those codes will need to be cleared after the repair has been made. If that doesn't fix the issue, I would almost suspect a wheel speed sensor fault, be it the wiring of the sensor itself. Or did the new hubs come with new sensors?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:35 pm 
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as far as i know they came with new sensors.. i just bought four new Timken HUB assemblies.. i thought they were all inclusive?!?! but im a moron when it comes to cars


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:37 pm 
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Depends on the manufacture. Some don't come with new sensors. I think Timken would include new sensors. Clear the codes and go from there.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:38 pm 
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ok thanks... i just wasnt sure if theyre were codes to be erased since most people just put their computers back on and it seems to go away...

THANK YOU FOR A QUICK RESPONSE :grin:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 4:02 pm 
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i agree the bearings should have the sensors built in , and if all where replaced i would clear the code and go from there, if the problem is still there i would say you have a wire issue some where that is causing the issue, but to trace that out could be kinda fun.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 8:36 pm 
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unhook yur battery for 10 min. see if it clears the codes...

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:06 pm 
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Could be your ebcm (electronic brake control module). I had the same problem and followed the same path you did with replacing the hubs and then it was a toss up between the ebcm and the computer. Chose right with the ebcm.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:19 pm 
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You also could have something as simple as a broken wheel speed sensor wire somewhere, this is a known issue. I would check to make sure that you have continuity at each connector and take it from there.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:22 pm 
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^^Bingo. For all the money you've thrown at the problem so far, you could have just taken the car to a shop with a Tech II scanner (a dealership more than likely since the mechanic and shop you took it to obviously didn't think of using one or don't have one) and could have figured out where the problem circuit is or if the EBCM really is toast in a couple seconds.

The dash light goes away when the problem is resolved. No need to clear codes, but if the light is still present, the problem still exists.

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The following people have thanked the author Planeboy18 for this post Elvis361 (Tue Jan 31, 2012 9:54 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:27 pm 
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Yep, the light will go off once the break in the system is taken care of. Didn't think of the tech-II, but yes, they will be able to tell you which wheel(s) the problem is coming from. A normal scanner like those found at your local auto parts stores cannot do this.

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The following people have thanked the author Kyle_99_gtp for this post Elvis361 (Tue Jan 31, 2012 9:54 am)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 1:57 am 
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Alot of history codes will not automatically clear when the repairs are made. This may be one of those...

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 1:59 am 
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It's not. It will go off as soon as the system does it's startup checks if everything in the system is working fine. One broken wire/bad signal/weird reading and the system turns itself off and throws the light.

Even if it did need cleared, which it doesn't, it CANNOT be done with a regular OBDII scanner. It would require a Tech II.

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Last edited by Planeboy18 on Tue Jan 31, 2012 2:02 am, edited 1 time in total.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 2:02 am 
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AH ok, my bad.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 9:53 am 
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Thanks again for all the help!!! it is very much appreciated!!

i have had the codes checked twice.. first was a diagnosed as bad HUBS so i replaced them...then codes checked again... then diagnosed as computer... so i had it rebuilt... (couldn't afford new)...

Maybe the shop i have been going to doesn't have the Tech II scanner?.?.? :mad: Would've been nice to know that?!? :evil:

I will now be taking it to the Dealership to have the proper codes checked...

I Love this damn car i just wish i could get all the bugs worked out!!! o well that's part of it i guess... :roll:

THANKS AGAIN GUYS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!! :grin:


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 11:48 am 
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If they had a true Tech II it would have said exactly which hub(s) was not reporting a proper signal, not just some default error stating that one of them is bad, but no idea which one. The Tech II can show the signals for each hub in real time, so a mechanic only needs to look at the screen, see which hub isn't producing a proper mV oscillating signal (or may just show how fast the computer "thinks" each individual wheel is spinning, honestly hot sure, never used a Tech II on a GM vehicle myself, just familiar with VW's tech II like tool), and boom, there you go. Found the problem hub/wire harness.

Hope it all works out for you though. Post up what you find from the dealership.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 12:18 pm 
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Somebody said it could be his ebcm... He already sent it to cheap-abs.com.

I'm thinking that there is a break in a wire someplace...

Yur doing the right thing by taking it to the stealership for a diagnosis...

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The following people have thanked the author Mr.Angry.GTP for this post Elvis361 (Tue Jan 31, 2012 12:20 pm)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 9:44 pm 
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Yes this is my first post, but no need to go to a dealership for this. Any reputable shop should have a scanner capable of determining what wheel is having the problem. If that's even where the problem is. A tech II is absolutely not needed for this. You should ask the last shop what the codes are...


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 9:53 pm 
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abs codes for 04+ GP will reset them selfs after the repair is made.. You wont need to clear the code. It maybe a bad EBCM. I had a code that the LR wheel hub was bad to find out it was a EBCM that went bad.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 1:12 pm 
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Mr.Angry.GTP wrote:
Somebody said it could be his ebcm... He already sent it to cheap-abs.com.

I'm thinking that there is a break in a wire someplace...

Yur doing the right thing by taking it to the stealership for a diagnosis...


Maybe I misread it but he said he sent his computer to get fixed because he couldn't afford a new one. When my ebcm went bad my local mechanic pulled a code CO550 and he said it was the computer as well. He was wrong and it was the ebcm.

If it does turn out to be the ebcm I highly recommend checking on Ed morad and see if they have it. I got mine from there pretty cheap and it worked great.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 1:44 pm 
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^^What "computer" are you referring to? You keep referring to the "computer" and EBCM as 2 different entities, when in the OP's post he simply made the error of calling the EBCM the computer. It almost sounds like your local mechanic tried/did hose you. C0550 is a general ECU Malfunction code, but when no other codes are present it only refers to the EBCM (according to the service manual diagnostic procedure) not another "computer" which I'm guessing you and/or your mechanic are mistaking as the PCM.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 2:21 pm 
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the computer i was referring to was the "ABS Controller Module" as listed on rockauto.com

i apologize for the confusion.. i am not really good with terms.. or cars in general... :grin:


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 2:42 pm 
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Yup, ABS Control Module is the EBCM. I figured that's what you were referring to the your beginning post, but I'm confused by what 1slo900rr is calling the "computer" because he's making it sound like 2 separate components. As I've said a million times on this forum, I HATE mechanics who try to take advantage of people (in 1slo900rr's case it sounds like vague terminology was used) in order to get you to pay for parts/labor for something that isn't really the issue. :thumbleft: Just hate seeing people spend money on unneeded parts/services, then again, I'm a full time student, so perhaps I'm just jealous that other people have money to spend and I don't :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 3:02 pm 
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I hate to admit it but my father is a ASE Master Certified Mechanic... i was the kid growing up that just had my dad fix my issues... now that i live 1300 miles away i cant have him just fix it.. i regret not paying attention... unfortunately growing up with a Mechanic father i pretty much dont trust any mechanic cause of the stories i was told about mechanics screwing people who dont know any better..... every quote i am given or problem i am told about i call him and ask if the prices are normal or if im getting hosed...

He has saved me about 2 or 3 thousand dollars worth of B.S. parts that werent needed...

same goes for this forum.. you guys are great thanks again!!! :grin:


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 10:08 pm 
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Just being on these forums has saved me tonnes over the past 3-4 years of wrenching on and fixing the GTP's Ive owned. :)

Flip is right, maybe the EBCM is faulty (still)... ??

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