Is changing the tranny/oil pan gaskets something that I would be able to do myself? I'm assuming it wouldnt be that bad to do. I just noticed that my oil pan looks like hell. I'm not losing alot of oil but its enough to possibly be getting onto the tranny's pan and a little onto the splash guard. I havent noticed a drop in my oil but I changed it recently. Where can I get the best gaskets for my car?

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DD: Cruze LT
04 Comp G: All dash no flash.
"I'm not an alcoholic but I keep a gallon of whine under the hood."
"My Grand Prix has a first name its W H I N E R."

I am lost here on what one your after...engine oil pan, or the transmission pan?

Both can be done by the do-it-your-self-er. One is easier than the other.

Engine oil pan...not the fun one to do. Two ways to do it.
1.) pull the engine and do it out side the car on a stand.
2.) support the engine from above with a engine holder, and drop the entire engine cradle out the bottom. You will have to have the car aligned once done too.

Oil pan gaskets you can use what ever. GM or FelPro. Sad to say that Felpro's are better because they revised them giving them taller rubber "fins" on the gasket, so it seals better on the wrinkles of the pan that causes low spots and leaks. GM did not, the only changed the method of installment, which is use RTV on BOTH sides of the gasket when installing. Gm installed them dry from the factory with no RTV originally, then some years later, like in 2001 or 2002, they started using RTV when they assembled them cause many cars were comming back to the dealer with leaks. crappy stamped steel pan design is the cause.

I have used both, and I suggest you use a FelPro, and RTV on both sides of the gasket, and if everything is cleaned good, you should never have a leak again.

Transmission pan...easy...loosen all the bolts, and start removing them on the passengers side first, and work your way to the drivers side. The right side will start oozing, and dripping, then turn into a good stream all around the pan. I will remove all the bolts except the ones on the far left side, like 5 or so, that way the pan hangs down on one side to help direct it in the pan, and you better have a large pan too. I use the top cut off a plastic 55 gal. barrel.

Remove the pan all the way, and if its a stock steel reinforced gasket, you can clean and reuse it. If its not, then use the new one supplied with the filter, just dont use cork, they seep and leak.

~F~

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Even using RTV on both sides doesnt cut it. I use 3m super weatherstrip adhesive for crappy gasket/pan designs, and i never get leak comebacks.

I clean with solvent, degrease and prep with lacquer thinner, for oil pan gaskets, Permetex, Ultra Grey on both sides of the gaskets FTW!

Tranny pans = gasket goes on dry, and make sure you torque the pan bolts.

~F~

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Is there any way to get to the oil pan gasket by just lifting the engine and NOT dropping the cradle? I have an aluminum pan that I'd love to put on, but I'm looking for the easiest way without major surgery.

Its a pain in the ass I have heard to work around the cradle with the engine lifted and supported.

Its best to either pull the engine out, or drop the cradle out below, and get an alignment after wards.

Its a labor intensive job for a oil pan gasket. Dealers, and most all shops charge $500.00 to $800.00 in labor to change one. They all drop the cradle vs. pulling the engine. I will do either for my "customers" depending if its just service, i drop the cradle, or were going to do some engine mods, cam, heads etc. anyway, the engine come out the top and we work on a stand.

I have to do the GF's '97 GTP's pan here next. Its been seeping since she bought it, and somebody has already done a gasket change, cause I see a large amount of RTV sticking out the sides all around. They failed obviously at doing the job right.

~F~

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