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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 1:54 pm 
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Okay, so lately I've been getting a bit of a shake when idling.

1. RPMs (once warmed up) would drop to about 650-700 rpms. Seems to me like the engine misses ever so slightly and I can see the RPM gauge drop to about 590-600 when I can feel it missing. No MIL is thrown and no code can be read. The plug on cylinder 5 had an electricity burn mark in a shape of the tree on the porcelain, so I thought that was my original cause of missing. So I ended up replacing all 6 plugs and wires with ACDelco. By the way, the rear plugs are a PAIN IN THE ASS to get to!! Thoughts?

2. Ever since I purchased my GP last year in Sep, the S/C whine isn't as pronounced as ones I hear on YouTube. Seems to me that my engine is a helluva lot louder than my S/C, which you can just hear in the background. I may just be nit-picky but I wanna make sure that my S/C isn't on it's way out? I topped off the S/C fluid about a month ago. Took two bottles of S/C Synthetic Oil.

3. My coolant temp has always read (when at normal operating temperature) 3/8ths. When sitting for about 5 minutes, it fluctuates to over 1/2, then when I drive again it drops. I'm thinking it may just be the thermostat, but I guess it can be just GP nature. Any thoughts on this as well?

Thanks!!

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Last edited by k.trazy on Sun Jan 08, 2012 1:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 1:57 pm 
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not sure on the rpms, someone more experienced can jump in on that...but my guess on the supercharger whine is the ones you hear on youtube more than likely have some sort of intake on them which makes the whine a lot more pronounced, as for your thermostat that sounds about right for a stock thermostat...if it bothers you throw in a 180* and flush your coolant for some green stuff and get rid of the dexcrap

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 2:09 pm 
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black04gpgt wrote:
my guess on the supercharger whine is the ones you hear on youtube more than likely have some sort of intake on them which makes the whine a lot more pronounced, as for your thermostat that sounds about right for a stock thermostat...if it bothers you throw in a 180* and flush your coolant for some green stuff and get rid of the dexcrap

Hmm.. I was thinking something along the lines of a pulley mod, but surely not ALL GTPs on YouTube are modded. I'm sure a good majority are, but not all I'm sure. I'll have to look into the intake for the S/C. Not too familiar with S/C's so hopefully I can make this last. I've read that GTP S/Cs only really last for about 100k miles. I'm clocking in at 123k right now.

As for the coolant/thermostat, I was just wondering if it was just normal operation. And since it is, I'll deal with that last. Get the more critical things covered first.. haha

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 2:13 pm 
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if you search on here for DIY intakes...youll see how to set one up...its no different than setting on up on a N/A motor. honestly for probably $50 and a trip to home depot you can set up a FWI, and for the price of a filter you can just take the stock air box out and just throw and open cone on the end of the MAF.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 2:33 pm 
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1. Re-check and confirm spark plug gap, ohm out the new wires, test the coils.

2. It was two full bottles low on oil? That does not sound good. Luckily, it is not that difficult to fix and you can pull the snout with it on car.

3. Wait until your car is cold, preferably sitting overnight. Open the radiator cap and top off the fluid then close it, open the 7mm bleeder valve half a turn 90*, start the car and let it warm up to operating temperature. Once a steady stream of coolant is coming out of the bleeder, close it. Do not overtighten.

I would not recommend changing to green anti-freeze unless your engine block and radiator are confirmed bone dry, and the system has been flushed thoroughly.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 4:18 pm 
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Yep, checked and verified gap on the plugs. I don't have an OHM meter, so I'll have to borrow one from a tech at work. I'll have my tech take a look at my coils too, if he's low on work.

Yeah, unfortunately, Brookdale Chev sold it to me with like no S/C oil in it. I added it and so far it's getting better boost. Thank god it wasn't seized. I can still hear the S/C but more like a secondary compared to the engine growl.

And with that procedure, you think there may be air pockets in my coolant system?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 10:00 am 
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k.trazy, can you verify you did these steps and if it fixed it or not? I have the same type of minimal fluctuating RPM's when first starting. I havent done anything to try to fix this yet but was wondering if you every figured your issue out. Did you do the steps that AJL227 told you to do with the coolant? Where exactly is the cold line for the anifreeze? it's hard to tell. I replaced my thermostat because i got a code for operating temperatures (thermostat was stuck open) but i never did the bleeder :/. The check engine light came on again and im going to verify today that it is the thermostat and if it is i will be following those steps ^^ this time. I just dont see how a thermostat can go bad again in a week. Wondering if it was the antifreez being chunky causing the thermostat to stick open. I'm trying to learn as much as i can before i start buying and replacing!

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2012 2:57 pm 
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Make sure all your vacuum lines and vac line "T" fittings are good as well.

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