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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 9:55 am 
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well i have a fun task ahead of me. i need to change ut the crankshaft position sensor. i really need to do it soon because this whole my car not starting at 4 in the morning and me having to walk home is getting old, fast. does anyone know where a writeup is to do this? preferably one with pictures. lol. i'm pretty sure i just have to take the harmonic balancer off. but yea any advice would be fantastic. thanks in advance.

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97 GTP-Wizair, SLP headers(no cat), 1.84 RR, Ported S/C, Ported TB, Ported LIM, 3.4" pulley, 180* tstat, ZZP PCM, KYB GR2 struts
1/4-13.6 @ 102.66 MPH 2.195 60'
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 9:59 am 
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I dont think its too hard. You take off the passenger side wheel, then its right there I think.

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Last edited by 2door98gt on Thu Jan 22, 2009 10:00 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 6:07 pm 
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Here ya go: Changing the crank position sensor on a 97 GTP


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 3:19 pm 
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awesome. thanks for the link. thats definetly gonna help.

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97 GTP-Wizair, SLP headers(no cat), 1.84 RR, Ported S/C, Ported TB, Ported LIM, 3.4" pulley, 180* tstat, ZZP PCM, KYB GR2 struts
1/4-13.6 @ 102.66 MPH 2.195 60'
Stompin on ricers, one ricer at a time


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 7:11 pm 
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I just did this a couple of weeks ago. Its pretty straight forward. Make sure that you get the bolts that the writeup tells you to get. If you rent a tool it won't have the right bolts for the job. Also when you get to the CPS make sure that you unplug it before trying to pull the cover off, I just had to deal with that mistake.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 8:51 pm 
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my buddy has the balancer puller tool with the screws so i should be set there. did you have to do a case learn for after you changed out the censor? and did you have to drop the subframe at all?

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97 GTP-Wizair, SLP headers(no cat), 1.84 RR, Ported S/C, Ported TB, Ported LIM, 3.4" pulley, 180* tstat, ZZP PCM, KYB GR2 struts
1/4-13.6 @ 102.66 MPH 2.195 60'
Stompin on ricers, one ricer at a time


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 6:42 pm 
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Just pulled the wheel and balancer off, that's it, there is more than enough room there. Its not very difficult and pretty straight forward. When I was done the car started right up, didn't have to do anything special.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:11 pm 
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Tools Required:
J 36660 Torque/Angle Meter.
J 37096 Flywheel Holding Tool.
J 38197 Balancer Remover.

Removal Procedure:
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the serpentine belt(s) from the crankshaft pulley.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
Remove the right front wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the right inner fender access cover.
Hold the flywheel with J 37096 Flywheel Holding Tool.
Using 28 mm socket, remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt.
Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer using special tool J 38197 Balancer Remover.
Remove the crankshaft position sensor shield (1) Do Not use a pry bar.
Disconnect the sensor electrical connector.
Remove 2 attaching bolts from the crankshaft position sensor.
Remove the crankshaft position sensor from block face.

Installation Procedure:
Position the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor to the block.
Install the bolts to hold the CKP sensor to the block face. Tighten the bolts to 20-40 Nm (14-28 lb ft) .
Install the crankshaft position sensor shield.
Connect the CKP sensor electrical connector
Position the crankshaft harmonic balancer on the crankshaft.
Hold the flywheel with J 37096 Flywheel Holding Tool. Tighten, using J 36660 Torque/Angle Meter, the harmonic balancer bolt to 150 Nm +76 degrees (110 lb ft +76 degrees) .
Install the right inner fender access cover.
Install the right front wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (104 lb ft) .
Lower the vehicle.
Install the serpentine belt(s).
Connect the negative battery cable.

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Scott McKinney
http://www.motortopia.com/cars/16218" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


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