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 Post subject: Boost gauge problems?
PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:13 am 
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Just hooked up my autometer boost gauge... took it for a spin, maxed out at about 5psi, shifted to second WOT and it sat at about 2psi. Doesn't sound right... with the car off its about 6 on the vacuum side. Sound right to you guys? Maybe I don't have a tight enough connection somewhere...


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IMG_20110716_090907.jpg [ 1.04 MiB | Viewed 111 times ]
EXIF-Data

Focus length: 4 mm
Shutter speed: 1/270.855904659 Sec
F-number: F/2.8
ISO speed rating: 50
Whitebalance: Auto
Flash: Flash fired, compulsory flash mode, return light detected
Camera-model: Droid
Exposure program: Normal program
Exposure bias: 0 EV
Metering mode: Center-weighted average


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 9:18 am 
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Where'd you get the guage from. The guage is either broken or needs calibrated (can you calibrate a boost guage?). It should be reading 0 when not connected and/or the car off.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 9:45 am 
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$%^&*( yeah i got it from a guy over on gpf.net. I was kinda thinking it was broken....but HOPING i did something wrong....

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 10:07 am 
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you t into it correctly?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 16, 2011 11:10 am 
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I t'd into it on the line right above the rear valve cover. Theres the t that goes towards the back of the car under the blower pulley, i t'd into that line right before the sensor at the end.

if you dont follow ill post a pic up in a sec

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 2:16 pm 
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I work i an Air Force calibration lab. If it's not reading on zero with the engine off then there's your problem. Unless the face can be taken off and the needle removed and put in the right spot then you have a bad gauge.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 2:38 pm 
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You need to tee your boost gauge off of the map sensor.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 3:14 pm 
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^^^ yeah thats where ive got it

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 8:18 pm 
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That's the vacuum line he's talking about, it goes from under the snout on the LIM and goes to the MAP sensor and the FPR.

The main reason the boost readings are low is that the needle indicates vacuum when the engine is shut off. The gauge is already reading 6 inHg vacuum. You're already that far off before you start the engine. Unless the needle can be put back to zero it will always read lower boost than it should and the engine vacuum in non-boost will read off the same amount. You'd have to subtract 6 inHg from the vacuum reading. I have to reset the needles on gauges at work all the time. If you can get the face off then it can be reset. You nay need a needle puller but it can be done. I have one somewhere, just not sure where. I go up north about once a month.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 8:26 pm 
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Looks like it slipped a couple of teeth on the rack inside.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 1:10 am 
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Ill get around to checking it out, if its broken oh well... I'm only out a few bucks.

-- Wed Jul 20, 2011 3:28 pm --

I fixed it! Got some patiece and took it apart. And seen as its 104 outside it give me something to do inside


Attachments:

IMG_20110720_152239.jpg [ 1.05 MiB | Viewed 56 times ]
EXIF-Data

Focus length: 4 mm
Shutter speed: 1/14.9999250004 Sec
F-number: F/2.8
ISO speed rating: 92
Whitebalance: Auto
Flash: Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Camera-model: Droid
Exposure program: Normal program
Exposure bias: 0 EV
Metering mode: Center-weighted average


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2004 White CompG CAI, 180* tstat, 104s, 3.5", Tuned. 0*kr WOT
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