oh mah gawd, such an amazing design! tha'd be a great add to any engine!
*jealous*

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I've been watching this one and I have to say that's some darned fine workmanship there.
I say that as a machinist myself with 25+ years in the trade.
With that said,I have a suggestion for you
You've moved the idler away from the drive pulley for the super charger.
I would move the idler closer to the drive on the super charger,maybe 7" away...center to center.
That would mean extending your present plate design up above the head toward the snout.
Belts being rubber have harmonics that in this case will be excited by the pulsations created by the rotor meshing-kind of like twnging a rubber band.
Raise the resonance beyond the system's max operating point.
You were right to get rid of the stock,spring loaded tensioner.
It has no place on a Gilmer tooth belt system - not without a much stronger spring.
If you move the tensioner pulley closer to the charger,you'll have some extra bracket material to mount your shield to as well so you can get it off the snout and coilpack.
Just some thoughts.

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2005 GT owner [Non S/C] with a "big DIC".
Two years later and I still love the car.
Thanks Pontiac...Bleen is keen!

Jason your ideas never cease to amaze me. I wish I had the money to buy one of these belt setups, not even because I need it, but purely because of how wickedly awesome it it.

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'05 WRX STi- AP Stage 2 tune|Invidia DP|3" Borla XR-1 CBE|TiC super shifter set|DBA 4000 rotors/SS lines|Lots of braces/poly bushings
Sold: 06 Cobalt SS/SC, 99 GTP 245WHP/326 Ft-lbs, 06 R6

I went back, and looked at the pics...and maybe it's a stupid question, but how does that tensioner work? How you do you tighten it down?

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One Big Ass Mistake America

it looks like the tensioner moves on the three slots and you pull up or down on the pulley when the bolts are loose and then tighten them back up when you feel that it's good and belty?

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Aragorn

The tensioner slides up and down in the single long groove cut into the plate. The three bolts that attach the plate to the engine head are bolted down tight, no adjustment there.

The single bolt that holds the pulley assembly together to the pulley spacer, and the slotted pulley nut on the back also acts as the main fixture point. So, when the nut is loose, the pulley is free to slide up and down as needed, for installment of the belt, or adjustment of the pulley. You then have the belt meshed up with the crank, , supercharger, and front idler pulley, push down on the tensioner, hold it, tighten the bolt, and done.

Other set ups (top fuel) sometimes have a threaded screw that you turn to set the tension, and then tighten down the bolt of the tensioner pulley once the belt is tight. This does not need that kinda set up for this application. Nice to have, but, a little over kill.

Simple body weight is more than enough to set the tension, and once the bolt is tight, the pulley does not go anywhere. It had a great deal of clamping force on it to keep everything where it should be.

~F~



Thanks, I appreciate the comments, and can follow what you suggest.

The tensioner "relocation" helped BIG time with the "belt bounce" I was getting because of the belt deflection and the large gap between the two pulleys it was spanning. It made the belt appear to be loose, when it was not, but having a spring tensioner did not help in that department either.

Changing the belt routing some, I gain some more supercharger pulley belt route too.

~F~

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Good stuff.
It seems that everytime you route a belt around a pulley,it tends to kill or damp down any standing waves or harmonics in the drive belt to some extent.
Did you notice this at all?
I'm guessing that the farther you are away from the crank pulley on the drive side of the belt - as you approach the S/C snout going Counter Clockwise around the loop - the more supercharger harmonics affect the drive belt due to the tension on it - drive "pull".
Sound correct?
I'm thinking about a non-harmonic relationship used for speaker cabinet design ratio that goes 2:3:5,where one of any number is not a multiple of another.
So if you have a "run" of belt 30" long from the S/C snout to the crank pulley,you would divide the C/C lengths like this going clockwise from the S/C drive pulley:

S/C pulley to tensioner: 6" or so

Tensioner to front idler: 9" or so.

Front idler to crank pulley: 15" or so.

I'm looking at a pic' of your latest Aluminum mounting plate for the tensioner pulley and I'm guessing that if you put the tensioner C/line right at the left end of the plate towards the S/C snout,you should nail the deal.
What do you think?

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2005 GT owner [Non S/C] with a "big DIC".
Two years later and I still love the car.
Thanks Pontiac...Bleen is keen!

i this system still in testing?

I was wondering the same thing myself.
He was doing some great work.

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2005 GT owner [Non S/C] with a "big DIC".
Two years later and I still love the car.
Thanks Pontiac...Bleen is keen!

i want this setup, it seems this would help with tuning a little with more predictable consistent boost across the rpm range.
don't get me wrong this is a much improvement over anything else, but here's my setup and i still get slippage:

That is an improvement, but no matter how tight you can make an object grab a round object, there is still plenty for it to slip.
It needs teeth like Farns idea.

The set up was removed some time last summer, and went back to a stock set up for the mean time.

Planning on machining the two smooth pulleys again, I think a lot of the issue with belt rub is right there from what I saw. After talking with a guy who rebuilds the BIG superchargers, he gave me some more pointers to try out. He was impressed with the set up when he saw it. Just needs some touching up on the lathe, and a few more adjustments, and I think I might have it licked now.

~F~

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Fixed that for you Jason. I'm sure you just were typing quickly and skipped the last part of that sentence.

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'05 WRX STi- AP Stage 2 tune|Invidia DP|3" Borla XR-1 CBE|TiC super shifter set|DBA 4000 rotors/SS lines|Lots of braces/poly bushings
Sold: 06 Cobalt SS/SC, 99 GTP 245WHP/326 Ft-lbs, 06 R6

I'm sure,you big mooch.

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2005 GT owner [Non S/C] with a "big DIC".
Two years later and I still love the car.
Thanks Pontiac...Bleen is keen!

LOL

I wanted to add more...but it involved knee pads.

~F~

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Dude...that's just wrong. LOL

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One Big Ass Mistake America

Didn't think you were into that kind of thing Jason, that's pretty messed up!


I keed I keed.

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'05 WRX STi- AP Stage 2 tune|Invidia DP|3" Borla XR-1 CBE|TiC super shifter set|DBA 4000 rotors/SS lines|Lots of braces/poly bushings
Sold: 06 Cobalt SS/SC, 99 GTP 245WHP/326 Ft-lbs, 06 R6

No,no,no,no!
Man,that's an image I don't want in my head!
I WAS waiting for:

"Gee,Grand Prix's are the greatest and you're the smartest Grand Prix guy ever,my bestest old buddy,old pal."...or something like that.

Just messing with you Kyle.
You're alright in my book.

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2005 GT owner [Non S/C] with a "big DIC".
Two years later and I still love the car.
Thanks Pontiac...Bleen is keen!

Haha trust me that's not an image I want in my head either. But we can't help that Jason has a sick mind, so I guess we'll just have to deal with it.

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'05 WRX STi- AP Stage 2 tune|Invidia DP|3" Borla XR-1 CBE|TiC super shifter set|DBA 4000 rotors/SS lines|Lots of braces/poly bushings
Sold: 06 Cobalt SS/SC, 99 GTP 245WHP/326 Ft-lbs, 06 R6

sick, twisted, perverted...the list goes on, and on, and on....


~F~

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bad ass

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04 GTT - Retired
Best ET 13.016
Best Trap 115.56 MPH

Sweet setup, where'd the videos go?

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00 GTP Daytona

^videos I deleted from youtube.

Took em down, too many asshole comments, about this and that. As one guy said to me, "F*@k them jealous haters" LOL

I'll make another one perhaps in the future. A better one.

~F~

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Need videos BAD...

This still look like something that will be available in the future?

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04 Comp-G, 3.2" MPS, MSD, TOG's, XP'd, SLP cat-back, ZZP/Self tune, SLC CAI, Lowered (alot)

It could be available in the future. Doubtful anyone, other than myself, would want to drop the cash on it, just to have something that sounds cool as many say.

Next best thing to a timing gear set up sound, but with out the knock.

~F~

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