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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 10:59 pm 
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Yesterday, I disconnected the battery several times, and the pcm once, to take advantage of the fact that I finally got the previous owners 87 octane out of the tank and filled it with 93. I have also changed the plugs and wires, but my issues didn't happen until after the battery and pcm disconnects. The idle sometimes runs up to 2500 rpm when it's cold, it's usually normal after it warms up, although it has stalled twice when warm since yesterday. At first, the trans wouldn't shift until 5000 rpm unless I let off the throttle. That seems to be getting better, but is still not perfect. That also happens when it's not yet warmed up. I went to get trans fluid today, and a couple pieces of vacuum line, and decided to have the codes read while I was there. They found P0122 (TPS) (could that affect the trans shifting issue?), P0252 (Speed sensor) (could that be because the tps may be reporting in error? No problems with the speedo), and P0507(IAC)(again, could that be reporting accurate IAC counts, but the pcm believes they are wrong based on possibly inaccurate TPS readings?) Remember, none of these things happened until I had the pcm and battery disconnected.
Thanks, Gas.

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Black 2000 GTP. Still stock, only had it 2 weeks or so. Straightening everything out first.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 12:15 am 
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Yes, those codes are interrelated and causing the high idle and trans shifting problems since the PCM doesn't know what's going on with the engine inputs/outputs and thus tries to guess what to do and in this case is guessing wrong. If you didn't have a problem before, did something, and then had a problem, the problem is due to what you did :lol: You DIDN'T need to unplug the PCM, you actually really didn't even need to unplug the battery since the PCM would have adjusted timing due to the higher octane on it's own. Did you unplug the PCM while the negative battery terminal was still attached?

I'd try disconnecting the negative terminal for 20+ minutes, then checking the PCM harness for any exposed wires, faulty connections (might even want to disconnect the PCM this time only after the battery is unplugged and make sure that the pins are clean), and see if the problems go away. If not, you might need to do a CASE learn, but not sure since I've never had this issue or really heard much about something like this.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 1:18 pm 
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your shifting problems are due to the tps and wheel speed sensor. High idle is from your Idle Air Control valve. If the codes come back after an ECU reset, your sensors will obviously need replaced.

Matt, why would he need a case learn? Unless the PCM, cam position sensor, or crank angle sensor were changed, there should be no need for a CASE learn.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 5:14 pm 
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I made sure to unplug both battery terminals first. I left the pcm unplugged for a while (not sure how long) and then left the battery unplugged for a while longer.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:16 am 
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Worthless maf repairers!!!!!!! It was replaced on 11-8 be the previous owner. I'm guessing it started acting up a couple of days before I posted this. That means that the reman unit that replaced the original lasted about 14 days!!!!!!!!!!! Unreal. I remembered something about being able to unplug a suspect maf, so I did and it drives fine now. i just can't believe this garbage. I don't even know if I want to take advantage of the 6 month warranty.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 3:16 am 
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get a GM one. i am cheap and i rather spend the money for a GM one

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 5:35 am 
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Even a used GM one is better than an aftermarket one.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:31 pm 
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I called the mechanic who installed the maf on the 8th. It had a 6 month guarantee, that I was hoping would be honored. He refused to deal with it, because I wasn't the one who paid for the repair. I told him I didn't need him to do the labor, if he would tell me where he got it, I'd go exchange it and put it in myself. He told me to be reasonable, and he wouldn't even do that. SO.... I'm off to the boneyard after calling GM and finding out they want about $360 for a new one.
WHile I'm there, are there any bolt on upgrades I can take off of other cars? I'm primarily thinking sway bars, but I also am wondering what seats I could get. Mine are in pretty good shape, but I'd love to get some Bonneville SSEI seats. I like the side bolsters on those, but don't know if the power connections are the same, if they bolt in the same, or how I would control them. Barring those seats, what newer seats could I get? Mine look good, but the foam in them is kind of getting hard. I could get them refoamed, but if I can just get boneyard seats in good condition, that would probably be cheaper.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 6:25 am 
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Some '97-'03 GP owners upgrade to the '04+ up GP seats: 04+ leather seats on 97-03 model *review* (56k)


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