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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 8:57 am 
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*this process should leave you with a smooth and glossy final product, if you want a texture to it, do not sand higher than 400 grit. follow all instructions about curing (drying time to the touch and to be handled) and about weather conditions. work only in an area where no dust, hair, or other objects can land in your wet paint.*


start off by taking whatever piece you want to paint, spraying it with degreaser and then wash it with hot water. let it dry completely and make sure there’s no oil, grease, armor all, or anything else on it. if there is wash it again.

*all sanding is from here on out is understood to be wet sanding*
*ALWAYS wash AND dry the piece between coats of paint*

wet sanding is the process of sanding something while keeping the surface of it wet. i always like to wet the object and get a cool-whip bowl and keep water in it, and whenever you need to, dip the sandpaper in the bowl.

sand the piece with 400 grit sandpaper, making sure not to put any gouges in it. (if you are doing something with raised text, such as the fuse box cover, file it down first, then sand)

wash the piece and sand again with 400. wash again.

sand with 600 grit and wash the item off.

sand once more with 800 grit sandpaper, then wash and let dry.


you are now ready for your first coat of paint. i use krylon fusion when painting plastic. it does not require a primer coat, and i have used it as a filler/primer for itself with great outcome. if you want a high gloss finish, get a gloss base coat color, and a gloss clear(engine cover, fuse box cover). for a less glossy finish, get gloss base coat and satin/flat clear coat (interior pieces like the gauge cluster surround). for a low/no gloss finish, get both the base and clear coats in satin/flat.

*USE COMPATIBLE PAINTS* do not mix paint brands, because the paints could react with each other and ruin your work. do no mix kyrlon base and duplicolor clear, or duplicolor base and rustolium clear, and so on.

for clear coat, i used krylon triple thick crystal clear glaze. it goes on very thick and will run easily, practice on something like an un-needed cd case before using. the end result is amazing if done correctly.

*disclaimer* if you are painting something underhood, i do not know how kyrlon fusion stand up to heat, as my painted items are show use only. if you wish to run them all your car at all times, look into paint that is heat resistant.


spray your first coat of base color onto the dray plastic piece. let the paint cure for the recommended time, and sand it with 800 grit until you start to see the color of the plastic coming back through. you have effectively used the paint as a "filler" to fill in the grooves and dimples left over by sanding. repeat this process 2 more times, wet sanding with 800, with a wash and another coat of color, both drying completely before moving on.

spray your next coat of base color and let dry. wet sand with 1000 grit sandpaper. wash the piece and let it dry. hold it u, at an angle to a light source. if the paint appears glossy even though it is actually not, the piece is smooth and you can move on. if not, repeat this step until you get this result.

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*notice how the cover is glossy even though the paint has been sanded. this is what you want for a high gloss finish.*

*if you want a semi gloss finish, another way to accomplish this is to sand only to this point once, put your final coat of base color and then clear on*


to continue on your way to a high-gloss finish, re-spray your base color and let dry. wash the piece and sand with 1500 grit sandpaper. i did this twice although it was being very precautionary. i suggest doing this twice, although it may not be ABSOLUTELY necessary.

Re-spray the piece again with the base color and sand with 2000 grit. i went over the entire piece twice with the 2000 grit before spraying the base coat again.

after sanding with 2000 grit twice, re-spray the FINAL base color coat. let the paint dry, and sand with 2000 grit once more. wash the piece.

if you are satisfied with the smoothness/glossiness of the piece, move on to the next step. if not, continue to sand with 2000 and re-spray the base color.

spray your first coat of clear. at this point wet sanding will not be needed, as the piece will be smooth.

*MAKE SURE that NOTHING can land in the paint. you will have to sand and re-clear if this is the case.*

put as many coats of clear on as you like. the general rule is, "the more coats of clear, the deeper and higher gloss you will get"

i did 7 coats of clear on my engine cover and 5 on the fuse box cover.

the final result should be a high gloss, show ready, great looking part for your car that you can take pride in when you say, "i did this myself".

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you can add any decals or graphics you like.

good luck!

-Kyle

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:26 am 
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no one?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:55 am 
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happy? lol jk, in all seriousness though I may try this for some interior pieces this weekend if I find the time. Great write up!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 12:09 pm 
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yeah, thats better. thanks!

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:42 pm 
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no one cares...

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:54 pm 
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GREAT WRITE UP!!!

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:54 pm 
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I agree with colonel sanders, that's a fine piece of work right there.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 1:19 pm 
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andrew cares about me :D

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 2:40 pm 
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hahaha it is seriously a great writeup though. I don't think anyone else has done a better one.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 5:57 pm 
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Should i use this process for Painting my front and rear facias?

Ryan

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:26 pm 
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Great write-up, gives me something to do for the summer :D

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:34 pm 
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SLVR GT wrote:
Should i use this process for Painting my front and rear facias?

Ryan


it could work the same way, but use automotive grade paint instead of kyrlon. OR kyrlon with automitive clearcoating

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:35 pm 
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Kendra wrote:
Great write-up, gives me something to do for the summer :D


thanks!

post pics as you progress!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:45 am 
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Here you go Kyle:
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- That's as far as I got right now.

I'm not done yet, but that's what I have so far.

I was going to send it to Whitcomb, but since I'm selling the GP I would have hated to have him put all the work into it only to go elsewhere and to a potiental home that didn't care for Army :D.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 11:27 am 
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looks great kendra! keep us posted!

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 6:54 pm 
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The progress of day 1
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What i plan to do with it (excuse the crayon lol)
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:15 pm 
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looks good, now use the krylon fusion as a filler primer, sand it back down until you star tot see the black plastic again, shoot it agqain, sand it down angain, repeat, repeat, repeat.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:19 pm 
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im gonna do high temp paint for the paint cause i expect to use the cover a lot more. maybe not in the winter but more in the summer.
regular white krylon fusion will do the job?
what about plain white meijer spraypaint?
cause my dad says primer is primer, nothing else.

Man i feel like waterboy lol, my momma says my momma says

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 10:17 pm 
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krylon fusion is perfect for this, it sticks to the plastic very well.

whatever you do, dont mix paint brands. if you use kylon base, use krylon primer and clear. paint can react with other brands and ruin your hard work.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 3:56 pm 
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i need high temp though.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 5:08 pm 
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i woudl suggest going with dupli color engine bay paint then, and use dupli color primer and clear as well.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 5:43 pm 
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i found these at autozone but didnt find a primer. i got black white red and clear though
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 6:21 pm 
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The go ahead and use duplicolor primer..Its the same thing. And you shouldnt need to use hi-temp paint.. Mines holding up perfect.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 9:35 pm 
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Indeed. Mine is auto paint. and a bunch of stuff under the hood is plain dupli color and its holding up just fine.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 3:35 pm 
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Very good write up! I will be doing mine very shortly!

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