i have this nice write up from a guy off that other site and thought i'd post it here:

How to Seafoam your 1997-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix
By Rob (caruch6392)

Things you need to Seafoam your engine: To get the full benefit of a complete treatment you will need to following items:

• 2 cans of Seafoam
• Medium sized flat head screwdriver
• Pliers
• 1 long, skinny funnel
• Measuring cup with oz. labels
• Paper or regular cup
• Sharpie, or black marker
• Extra person to help with phase 3

Things you may consider changing after a Seafoam treatment:

• Spark Plugs
• Fuel Filter (AC Delco brand is recommend as it is the OEM brand)

Note: The ACDelco fuel filter can be found at Advance Auto Parts. Part No. GF578.

Time Frame:
The time frame to complete a 3 phase Seafoam treatment is around 30-45 minutes. This includes the 20 minutes of having your car sit to let the Seafoam soak inside your engine.

What is Seafoam?
Seafoam is 100% petroleum and is not harmful to your engine with proper use. The purpose of Seafoam is to remove the carbon build up inside your engine, intake manifold and fuel injectors due to regular driving. If you are suffering from poor mileage, sluggishness or the RPM’s surging, then these instructions may help you with these problems.


Note: Seafoam can be found at any Advanced Auto Parts store for around five dollars a can. Part No. SF16

How to Seafoam your car:

Phase 1 of 3: Fuel Injector Cleaning

Note: During phase one, when pouring the Seafoam into the gas tank, your car should be turned off.

1. To start off, make sure you have a full, but not overfilled gas tank, as you will be pouring your first can of Seafoam into your gas and you do not want the concentration to be too powerful or too weak.

2. After filling up your gas tank use the long, skinny funnel and insert it into the gas tank.

Figure 1-1


3. Shake the first can of Seafoam briefly and gently, then, using the funnel, pour the entire contents of the can directly into the gas tank. (See figure 1-1)

4. After the can is empty, remove the funnel and clean up any extra drips that may have gotten on your car’s paint.

5. Now, put your gas cap back on and go for a short drive. This will let the Seafoam mix in your gas tank and slowly clean out your injectors.



Note: Because we do not want to dilute the Seafoam mixture any more, make sure you drive with this tank of gas until it gets to a pretty low level before filing up again.

Phase 2 of 3: Oil and Crankcase Cleaning

Note: During phase two, when pouring Seafoam into your crankcase, you car should be turned off and the car should be cold. We do NOT want a room temperature liquid being poured into a 200+ degree engine. This may cause some shock to valvetrain parts.


1. After your car is completely cooled off we are now ready to begin pouring a measured amount of Seafoam into your oil.

2. The measurement for the amount of Seafoam per quart of oil is 1.5 ounces per quart. Since Grand Prix’s take 4.5 quarts, we do some math and do (1.5) x (4.5) = 6.75 ounces of Seafoam that you will be pouring into the oil.

3. A can of Seafoam is 16 ounces so we will pour a little less than half of your second can of Seafoam into the oil.

4. To get the correct amount, take your measuring cup and fill it with regular water up to the line of approximately 6.75 to 7 ounces. You don’t have to be perfect but try and get it around 7.

5. Then transfer this water from the measuring cup into your paper or regular cup.
Figure 1-2



6. Using your black marker, make a line on the outside of the cup where the water line is currently at. This marks exactly how much Seafoam you will pour into this cup in the next few steps. (See figure 1-2)

7. Now that you have the measured amount marked off, empty the cup of water and make sure the cup is dry.

8. Using your second can of Seafoam pour it into the cup up to the marked line.
Figure 1-3


9. Once that is done, open up the oil filler cap and slowly pour all the measured Seafoam into the crankcase. You can use the funnel if necessary. (See figure 1-3)

10. Put the oil filler cap back on.

11. Do not drive your car for more than 250 miles with this Seafoam solution now in your crankcase. It is safe but very aggressive. It is recommended that you change your oil and oil filter after 100 miles.


Note: Do not drive your car for more than 250 miles with the Seafoam in your crankcase. The solution is safe but very aggressive. It is recommended that you change your oil and oil filter after 100 miles.

Phase 3 of 3: Top End Clean

Note: During this phase your car needs to be running long enough to enter a closed loop. Go for a short ride so that you car warms up to normal operating temperature which is around 180 or so degrees.

Note: During this phase there may be heavy white smoke that will come out of the exhaust. Be sure you are in a WELL VENTILATED area

1. By now there will be approximately half a can of Seafoam left. This will be used for phase three.

2. For people with the L67 engine you will use the connection in figure 1-4. It is a different vacuum line to suck the Seafoam in, so you don’t strip your supercharger rotors. (Thanks to Jason who supplied the supercharger picture)
Figure 1-4


Note: For people with the L36 or naturally aspirated engine, ignore step 2 and continue on to step 3.

3. In order to get the Seafoam to interact with all the cylinders we need a vacuum line that goes to all cylinders. This is the brake booster line. It is the hose attached to the yellow “cap” looking piece.

Figure 1-5



4. The brake booster line is highlighted by the green arrow and needs to be pulled off. (See Figure 1-5)

Note: The brake booster line may be difficult to pull off. You may use some force to pull it off. If this fails then use a flat head screwdriver or pliers and pry the line off of the connection.

5. After the brake booster line is off, insert the long, skinny funnel into the brake booster line. Making sure it snugly fits inside the booster line.

Note: During the next step it will be hard to start the car. Keep the ignition cranking until the car starts. When it does start it may stall as we now have an enormous vacuum leak and the engine cannot stabilize itself. If it does stall, start it up again and keep it alive by holding the engine at around 2000rpm – 2300rpm. If it does not stall then simply keep the engine at a steady 2000rpm -2300 rpm.

Note: This next step is where thick, white smoke may occur.

6. Have your extra person or friend get in the car and start the car.

7. Slowly pour in most of the remaining Seafoam down the funnel.

Note: This will make the engine unstable again, and it may begin to sputter. Be sure to keep the engine at 2000-2300rpm’s.

Note: The next step we are attempting to stall the engine by flooding it with Seafoam. This will leave the Seafoam to sit in the cylinder banks and eat away at the carbon If it does not stall right away after dumping the rest of the contents of Seafoam immediately turn off the car and finish pouring the Seafoam until it’s finished..

8. When you have an ounce or two of Seafoam left, quickly dump the entire contents of the can down the funnel and have your friend take their foot off of the throttle and quickly turn off the car.

9. Remove the funnel from the brake booster line

10. Re-connect the brake booster line by pushing it back onto the connection from which you pulled it off.

11. Let the car sit for a minimum of 10 minutes. It is recommended to let the car sit for 20 minutes.

Note: For the next step it will be difficult to start the car. The engine is currently soaked with Seafoam and may take a bit of cranking to finally have the engine turn over. If you have trouble when starting the car, give the car a little extra fuel by pushing the throttle a few times.

12. After the car has been sitting, attempt to start up the car.

13. Once the car turns over, it may want to stall again. Let the car struggle but keep it alive when necessary.

14. Let the car idle for about 10-15 seconds.

Note: This next step is where thick, white smoke may occur. Be sure to be in a well ventilated area. If there is no smoke while you are driving, continue to drive aggressively to still flush out the Seafoam.

15. Take the car out for a spirited drive. Be sure to reach all areas of the rpm range. Make sure to go 100% throttle a few times to flush Seafoam out of the engine. Continue to drive aggressively until the smoke (if any) decreases dramatically.

16. Congratulations! Your car is now mostly carbon free. You should notice a smoother idle and less surging and better overall responsiveness.

17. Do not forget to change the oil and oil filter after 100 miles.

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Do you have to do ALL of that ( i mean i would just like to put seafoam in the gas tank)

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Anyone think they can make a better?
|
V

no you don't have to do all that. you can just put it in the gas tank if you want, doesn't matter

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It just won't be anywhere NEAR as effective.

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One Big Ass Mistake America

ok i just did all 3 phases...foam in the crank case, foam in the gas tank, and foam in the vacuum hose.....the car HATED it in the vacuum hose....i had my person hold it at 2K RPM untill i was almost empty then i flooded the engine and it died....im now waiting for the 20 mins but there was a hell of alot of smoke and ALOT of the seafoam came out of the EGR tubes.....i see now where my exhaust leaks are.....first thing to go is the EGR....ill post some results after i fire it up....

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GO BIG OR GO HOME

97' GTP, HAI, pacesetter headers, cat/U-bend delete, 15'' Rockford Fosgate sub paired with a 1000 watt pioneer amp.

Gary

...and thats why i was wondering about before haha

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Anyone think they can make a better?
|
V

well everything seems fine.....im not sure how much sea foam actually made it into the engine through the vacuum line because of the very leaky EGR, it did take forever to start and it smoked like a MOFO so im hoping enough got in.....i took it for an "agressive" drive and it was fine untill i went WOT on a good stretch of road and the power cut out, i got jerked forward, power came back, i got pinned to the seat, power cut out i flew forward, got power back and once again got pinned to the seat and then i let off the gas and it was fine again...so i didnt feel like goin WOT again and it was fine when giving it a good amount of throttle....car still runs the same ill keep posting if i notice anything.....

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GO BIG OR GO HOME

97' GTP, HAI, pacesetter headers, cat/U-bend delete, 15'' Rockford Fosgate sub paired with a 1000 watt pioneer amp.

Gary

well let me just start off by saying HOLY SHIT!!!!!!!! this stuff is fking awesome... no more rough idle or hesitation when i hit the gas...smooth revs now...sooooo nice....i have driven the car for 25 miles now and it will go WOT now with no problems...car is all around more responsive and better to drive...if you have high miles on your car or notice any sluggishness, poor mileage or hesitation/ rough idle, just sea foam the car...even if it runs fine but has some miles its WELL worth the $12 for 2 cans and 30 mins to do the procedure....

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GO BIG OR GO HOME

97' GTP, HAI, pacesetter headers, cat/U-bend delete, 15'' Rockford Fosgate sub paired with a 1000 watt pioneer amp.

Gary

Anyone tried this on 04+. I'm thinking about it. Car only has 20K on it so I'm not sure I would gain much. Sounds like pretty good stuff if it works as described.

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06 GT, K&N CAI, AFC-2.0, ZZP MPS-3.5, HPtuner, PLX Wideband, Ceramic coated PLOG/Crossover/PEM/3" DP Hi-Flow Cat, Corsa Catback, GMPP STB's/w Don's Brackets, GMPP SwayBar, GMPP TArms, 180Stat, AL104

curious will the same how to work for the 04 and up.

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two tone paint, 20in Driv Gt, Nexxen Tires, Cross Drilled and Slotted Brakes. Chrome Oil Cap, Custom Exhuast

the only thing im wondering about is the instructions specifically said use the middle vac intake so prevent the sea foam from being sucked through the blower and stripping the rotors...but i had sea foam dripping out of my EGR tube where it connects to the block. so does that mean sea foam somehow made it into my TB and eventually down into the blower or can it get into the EGR tube somewhere els?

oh and BTW for you 04+ guys...im sure as long as you find the correct vac line to dump the sea foam into there is no reason this wouldn't work...you can at least do the can in the gas tank an 7 ounces in the crank case....just gotta figure out which inlet to use on the gen V

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GO BIG OR GO HOME

97' GTP, HAI, pacesetter headers, cat/U-bend delete, 15'' Rockford Fosgate sub paired with a 1000 watt pioneer amp.

Gary

gearhead retarded here. we dont have the same brake thing

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two tone paint, 20in Driv Gt, Nexxen Tires, Cross Drilled and Slotted Brakes. Chrome Oil Cap, Custom Exhuast

If Im not mistaken FastKatt has done this on his 04+. PM him and ask but Im pretty sure he has.

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Peace, I'm outta here!

your egr is hooked to the exhaust manifold, and will suck from that (for lack of better term right now) and dump into the intake

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Steve
'97 GTP VS cam, FWI, custom PCM tune, and not much else

anyone figured it out yet for the 04 guys.

why do you reccommend changing the spark plugs

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two tone paint, 20in Driv Gt, Nexxen Tires, Cross Drilled and Slotted Brakes. Chrome Oil Cap, Custom Exhuast

well...i hate to report this guys but the hesitation has RETURNED!!!! wtf? it went away for a few days and now its back? im going to seafoam it again and see what happens.....

_________________
GO BIG OR GO HOME

97' GTP, HAI, pacesetter headers, cat/U-bend delete, 15'' Rockford Fosgate sub paired with a 1000 watt pioneer amp.

Gary

did you change your spark plugs like the write up said

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two tone paint, 20in Driv Gt, Nexxen Tires, Cross Drilled and Slotted Brakes. Chrome Oil Cap, Custom Exhuast

no, but im not at 100 miles yet.....i figured i would change them when i changed the oil....

_________________
GO BIG OR GO HOME

97' GTP, HAI, pacesetter headers, cat/U-bend delete, 15'' Rockford Fosgate sub paired with a 1000 watt pioneer amp.

Gary

any updates for the 04's yet or why do you need to change the plugs

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two tone paint, 20in Driv Gt, Nexxen Tires, Cross Drilled and Slotted Brakes. Chrome Oil Cap, Custom Exhuast

When you use this it will remove carbon for the engine. Not all will come out on one try but you run a great risk of some clogging up the spark plugs on the way out. This is why you should change plugs. I have no idea how to do this with the 04+ GP, but I did this on my 97 GTP when I had it and it worked wonders with it (90,000 at the time).
Tate

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08 G8 GT: Free Mods FTMFW
06 GXP: 3" DP,Magnaflow catback, K&N Intake,HP tuned,160,flipped mount
04 Comp G: Sold

well I was looking at the pictures and then at the 04 engine bay. and the hoses look the same comming out of the brake thing.

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two tone paint, 20in Driv Gt, Nexxen Tires, Cross Drilled and Slotted Brakes. Chrome Oil Cap, Custom Exhuast

Ok - I have a '97 GTP - I thought I read somewhere that the ones with superchargers should not do this? Any issues with suprechargers?!?!?!

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I got 2 words for you "NICE"

'97 GTP Purple Metallic - 14.236 {3.4" pulley, 180 thermo, trans cooler}

I think I'm going to give this a shot when it gets nice out... I'm 2k mi. shy of 100k.

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Mods: Vector ECM/TCM tune | VG Sharkfin | Volant CAI w/Amsoil Filter | Spyder Tails | GXP Rear Diffuser | Debadge | SLP Spoiler
Erebus: 2000 Grand Prix GTP Sedan
2009.5 G8 GT
GPONA's June COTM 2011 & March 2012

i have it in the fuel and in the crank
waiting to do phase 3

but thee car runs like shit with that stuff inside
i mean i rode it for say 30 miles and it was hard accelerations and stuff all at temp and the car felt like it couldn't move

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its fine to do on supercharged cars u just have to put the seafoam in the specified inlet mentioned in the pic above...

_________________
GO BIG OR GO HOME

97' GTP, HAI, pacesetter headers, cat/U-bend delete, 15'' Rockford Fosgate sub paired with a 1000 watt pioneer amp.

Gary