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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 6:46 pm 
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Im not surer what models or years have this option but in the topic i will show how to do a Fuel pump through the access panel in the trunk.

Tools needed
10mm socket
ratchet
flashlight
needle nose pliers
flade blade screwdriver or pick
grease or lube

Time needed 25min-2 hours

As a mechanic for a living I have learned aftermarket fuel pumps ABSOLUTELY SUCK. So i used a GM AC delco pump. I paid 225.96 Prices may vary. i believe list is over 400
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Next your going to want to get into your trunk and remove or pull back the carpet. the access panel is located right behind the rear fold down center piece to the seats. I cut my carpet because my trunk is destroyed from the previous owner

This is what youll find
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Using your 10mm socket remove the 7 nuts holding the cover. theyare NOT going to be very tight as youll notice they are thin as paper. the cover is sealed by silicone so a pick or screwdriver will be needed to pry it up. trying not to bend it obviously

This is what youll find when you remove the cover
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Once you have the cover removed undo the 2 electrical connectors. one should have a little blue lock tab. use your needle nose and just pull it straight out.

Now for the lines. you have one feed(the larger line) a return line the smaller one. and then in the center is an evap vent line. DO NOT BREAK ANYTHING IN THIS STEP. youll notice the little blueish gray clips going under the 2 fuel lines. simotaneously push the line in a little ad use your needle nose pliers to squeeze the blue clip together. holding the clip with the pliers pull back on the line to remove it. mine did not come all the way off the pump just yet which is fine. as long as they are released. the center one i just used my pick to pop each side of the edge over the lip and gently pulled back. AGAIN all my lines did not fully slide off the pump which is fine.

LIKE THIS
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Next take a blow gun or blow all the debris off the top of the pump. you dont want all the rust and dirt to fall into the tank once the pump is removed

Now we remove the C clip. this will make or break the job. I took my pic and on each end stuck it in the hole and just popped the clip out from under the li. do this for all 4 or 5 lips around the rim of the pump. sometimes this clip is severely rotted and will break or tweak to the point of no use. in which case youll need a new one.

once the lines, connectors and C clip is removed youll have this
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Now we remove the pump. it might be a little stuck. ut just wiggle it a couple times maybe pry under the edges a little(you dont want to to damage the tank) once removed yuoull notice the pump is spring loaded and there should be a large rubber Oring remove everything. THERE WILL BE FUEL IN THE PUMP STILL SO BE CAREFUL.

*****if your lines are still partially connected like mine slowly lift the pump and away from the lines while gentley pulling them off the pump YOU WILL HATE YOURSELF IF YOU BREAK THESE LINES.********

Once the pump is removed grease the lip of the tank. grab the new pump and I prefer to reuse the old Oring if its not too swollen or flattened because it tends to fit much nicer. once the rim of the tank is lubed apply some lube to the rubber oring.

DONT FORGET TO ATTACH THE PLASTIC FLOAT ARM AND SWITCH OVER THE 2 FUEL LINE CLIPS, some people may have to rewire the supplied connector but not all. I didnt have to.

******WHEN INSTALLING THE PUMP. DROP THE FLOAT ARM IN THE TANK FIRST THEN THE PUMP DO NOT BEND THE FLOAT ARM OR YOUR GAS GAUGE WILL READ INNACURATE******

If your lines were still partially on the pump in the removal process the lines must be partially connected before dropping the pump all the way or you wont get them back on. Hence you couldnt get them off.

Applying down pressure on the pump put the C clip back into the slots to hold down the pump. connect all connectors and fuel lines assuring ALL LINES ARE CLIPPED IN BY PULLING BACK ON THEM.

You should see this when done
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Hope i didnt miss anything :)

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2000 Silvermist GTP. CAI, 180 t-stat, stage 2 shift kit, u-bend and resonator delete, fastkatt tuned PCM, autolite P104's, 3.4 pulley, altenator wire upgrade.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 1:18 am 
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The Stig
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If I remember correctly- the 04 (05+ there is NO door) you need to twist it off. It has no C clamp. It is also important to make sure the fuel lines are not pressurized too. Leaving it alone over night will do the trick or using a fuel pressure gauge and connect it to the fuel rail.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 6:42 am 
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Malefic_GP wrote:
If I remember correctly- the 04 (05+ there is NO door) you need to twist it off. It has no C clamp. It is also important to make sure the fuel lines are not pressurized too. Leaving it alone over night will do the trick or using a fuel pressure gauge and connect it to the fuel rail.


True. But chances are if the pump is bad there's not much pressure. You could release pressure by pushing the schrader valve on the fuel rail. I usually just throw a rag on it

And yes most gm vehicles actualy have the twist off style in which case a chisel/ screwdriver and hammer or in my case an air can be used to pop it loose.

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2000 Silvermist GTP. CAI, 180 t-stat, stage 2 shift kit, u-bend and resonator delete, fastkatt tuned PCM, autolite P104's, 3.4 pulley, altenator wire upgrade.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2011 1:54 pm 
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The Man in Black
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fyi 2 doors its in the trunk 4 doors it's under the back seat

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