this is a very nice upgrade to do for about 3$ not 20$
i hate seeing the performance sites selling these and ripping people off

so zzp says that the g6 uses a 1'4" cable
i suggest a 4 foot just because the fact that zzp screws up Alot i got one that is 4" too long
so 4' would be best for a nice fit that i=s cut for the car by you and has room if you mess up the crimps

ok so 4 gauge would be best for starting out
for best sound and other performance a 1/0 (said "OCT") gauge wire would be the best

now the crimps
i personally use the stinger gold connectors just what i have been running for the past 4 years in a few different cars.

PARTS
4' 4 Gauge Wire
4 Crimps (JIC)
1 4' Length Wire Loom (Optional)

TOOL
Wire Cutters
Wire Strippers
Crimp Tool

PROCESS
***DISCONNECT BATTERY***
1 Strip the wire about 1/4" up the wire to teh end
2 apply the crimp for the wire
3 unbolt the alternator output wire
4 place the new wire onto the bolt
5 reattach the alt output wire
6 guide the wire back to either the battery of fusebox post your choice
7 now get a general idea of where you want the wire length to be
8 cut the wire an inch longer than what you need
9 apply the crimp
10 (Optional) apply the wire loom and cut to fit
11 remove the bolt to your positive power source you would like the wire to be
12 place the crimp hole over the bolt
13 reattach
14 reconnect the battery
15 enjoy


*NOTE*
The battery was to be disconnected due to the fact that the power wire from the alt would have been a live wire and you would have had to cut to fit, as well as the wire could have a baggilion places to ground itself

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and what does this do??? did you notice a diference?

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2000 Silvermist GTP. CAI, 180 t-stat, stage 2 shift kit, u-bend and resonator delete, fastkatt tuned PCM, autolite P104's, 3.4 pulley, altenator wire upgrade.

it is supposed to help with dimming of your headlights while driving w/ a kick ass stereo but i guess mine isn't because it never dimmed and i did notice faster windows, heated seats, and a twinge of brighter headlights.

some people will tell you that they could feel a major difference in shifting points as well i.e. the car shifts harder

but my cv is going soon and my tsc is messed up so i couldn't really tell

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hhmm maybe ill try this out.

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2000 Silvermist GTP. CAI, 180 t-stat, stage 2 shift kit, u-bend and resonator delete, fastkatt tuned PCM, autolite P104's, 3.4 pulley, altenator wire upgrade.

i mean it is worth the money to do it
if you do it yourself
20 cents a foot and 5 cents a fitting from your local audio place

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Do I need the fork crimps like this only bigger to fit the wire

Or can I use the crimps that sort of look like this cause I have a ton of them laying around

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"(@)'(@)''''''''''''''''''''''' '''''''''*|(@)(@)** **"(@)

either one is fine. as long as it fits over the bolt on the alt. and the bolt on the fuse relay box. i didnt even use one i just put the sire behind it and tightened the bolt over it. and it worked fine

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2000 Silvermist GTP. CAI, 180 t-stat, stage 2 shift kit, u-bend and resonator delete, fastkatt tuned PCM, autolite P104's, 3.4 pulley, altenator wire upgrade.

So all it is then is taking 4 gauge wire and running it from the alternator output to the positive battery terminal or fuse box...wouldn't I only need 2 crimps then?

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|....Overnight Parts From Japan....| ||"';,__
|_..._...______________======| |_|_|...,]
"(@)'(@)''''''''''''''''''''''' '''''''''*|(@)(@)** **"(@)

yes two crimps Andrew and i prefer the I-hole to the open connector because of the fact that it is a hot line the alt can short out easily if that wire falls off on either side and than you have a problem

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Sweet, I may do this today, but I think I may just do the whole Big 3 while I'm at it. I read online today that most cars only have 16 gauge grounds(lol!) which is definatly not enough to power a system and HID's for me. Regardless this is an awesome writeup. If I do the Big 3 today I'll try to get pics and a write up.

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|....Overnight Parts From Japan....| ||"';,__
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"(@)'(@)''''''''''''''''''''''' '''''''''*|(@)(@)** **"(@)

sweet i plan on doing a 2 gauge or oct gauge upgrade just for kicks

i have big plans

also have your amp head back to your battery (-) the best ground you can get

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Yeah I've got a gold post battery terminal on the positive now since I got my new wiring kit. So easy to put wires on it cause I don't have to try and jam the old rubber battery connector. I found a really nice writeup for the Big 3 too. Here's the link
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/for ... 73496~PN~1
I'm gonna try and do a detailed writeup with pics for the GP guys though.

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|--------------------------------------| ||
|....Overnight Parts From Japan....| ||"';,__
|_..._...______________======| |_|_|...,]
"(@)'(@)''''''''''''''''''''''' '''''''''*|(@)(@)** **"(@)

i did 4 gauge and my foglights look white now(aftermarket) where as before i couldnt see much of a difference. also my lights on my dash quit flickering at random times

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2000 Silvermist GTP. CAI, 180 t-stat, stage 2 shift kit, u-bend and resonator delete, fastkatt tuned PCM, autolite P104's, 3.4 pulley, altenator wire upgrade.

Anyone got some installed pics of exactly what wire is replaced and where exactly it is located and ran to. Pics of 04+ and LS4s would be great.

I'd like to try this out for the hopefully better performing heated seats and rear defroster and possible fast windows.

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04GTP Comp G - XS Power Headers - K&N CAI - 3.5" - Overkilled PCM - 180 - RotorPros.com Drilled Rotors /w Ceramic Pads - 15% Tint - Started on Fire and Totaled out

New Ride 08 GXP

it goes from the fuse box post to the post on the back of the alt

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Thanks Zero, thats what I kinda figured, just wanted to be sure.

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04GTP Comp G - XS Power Headers - K&N CAI - 3.5" - Overkilled PCM - 180 - RotorPros.com Drilled Rotors /w Ceramic Pads - 15% Tint - Started on Fire and Totaled out

New Ride 08 GXP

Or you could do the alt to the post than the post to the battery. Would be a small little big 3


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