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 Post subject: Black Car Advice please
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 11:36 am 
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So i have yet to clay my car. I wantt o know i have a day to 2 days to spend the time.
I have very very fine circular/swirls on my car but only noticable on my hood! The paint on it seem fine though, as in no defects.
I have washed and waxed my car many times with Turtle Platinum wash and NXT Gen2 wax. It pleases me for a few weeks as long as theres no rain.
Goal is to rid of swirls, scratches and basically bring the paint to life as is any detailers job.
Should i follow this procedure... EDIT: I know how to clay, im looking more for scratch removal steps and product recomendations and order of process. Wash
Clay
Wash
This step to treat scratches? what to use?
Polish or sealant? Not sure here on what product to use
polish or sealant? or here...
Wax "x" amount of coats.

I am wanting to use mid range products. I am not goin to buy Zaino or anything outrageous priced. I hear the Gold Class is nice, but what about somehting for our black paint?

I plan to do it by hand and eletric buffers and such annoy me and i never saw much benefit of using them. If need be i do have a 10" orbital.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 1:04 pm 
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Name: Eric
The key to getting the best results is the paint prep... give it a wash and clay barring....then lets move on to getting rid of those scratches.

What it sounds like to me, is those fine circular swirls you're seeing are micro scratches in the clear coat. I'm guessing that when you look at the hood in the sun, the circles (cob webbing) will just follow the reflection of the sun all across your hood. These are usually caused by just normal washing, drying, and even waxing. You'll need a product that will take a micro layer of clearcoat off to bring the entire clear coat, down to the level of those scratches.

After claybarring, I use Meguairs #205 with a Dual Action Polisher. I understand you want to do it by hand, and you should be able to work the #205 by hand with no problem, however, I would encourage using a D/A for paint correction for 2 reasons - 1. its very hard to screw up your paint with a D/A and 2. you'll get a lot more consistant and quicker results with paint correction products as compared to doing it by hand....you're choice as either way should work fine.

If the #205 isn't cutting enough for you, I'd then jump to Megs #105. The 105 is a bit more agressive and you'll often need to clean up some hazing that was left behind from the 105, with the 205 I've never tried the 105 w/o a D/A so you'll be on you're own for that one. The key is to use the least aggressive product possible to achieve the results you want...start with the 205 and work about a 1' X 1' area at a time.

With a little time and elbow grease, that nasty cobwebbing should be gone fairly easily and your paint should be crystal clear - especially black!!!

Now on the the polish. You'll wanna use a pure polish like Megs #7 Show Car Glaze or Megs Deep Crystal Step 2 Polish. A pure polish has no abrasives in it. Think of it more as a paint conditioner. This is what is going to make that black paint look wet all the time. Again, a D/A will make this alot easier and consistant but this is able to be applied by hand as well. Follow the directions on the bottle but most should not be allowed to dry on the car and 1 application should suffice.

Now to the waxing. For black, I like using Megs Gold Class Carnuba Wax. IMHO, the Gold Class Carnuba gives off more color depth on dark paint, as compared with the NXT 2.0. I like the NXT for about all other cars though. I only apply 2 coats. The reason is this: http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/sh ... eadid=2167 Scroll down and read the part on the law of diminishing returns. And don't keep 'polishing' the car with your microfiber. A couple swipes will take off the dried wax and thats all you need. Any more and you may start cobwebbing the paint again with any dust that may have fallen, and besides, you're just wearing down the wax you just put on.

For further info - tune into http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/index.php. Its a wealth of information on products, methods, tips, and tricks, regardless of what brand of products you use. Obviously, all I listed were Meguiars products. I've had very good luck with them and the professional line, and detailer lines are price pretty decently from a distributer. Others will also recommened such products as Adams Polishes, Mothers, etc. All are around the same price, give or take, and will do a fine job (or better) as well.

FWIW - I get majority of my detailing products online from Auto Detailing Solutions. Rick at ADS is a great guy and always has some sort of special going on. he even offers 'sample' sized bottles of products. One of these sample sized bottles of Megs #205 has done several complete cars and I have several left to go! Gives you a chance to try new products and you're not out much if you don't like it.

Finally, check your wash mit, sponge, or whatever you use to wash. Make sure its clean as this may be the cause of your marring. I like washing using a 2 bucket method, so I'm not depositing any dust, dirt, grime, etc. back into my soapy wash bucket and potential into my wash sponge and then dig into the clear coat. Also check your chamois as any dirt or grime embedded into it can cause this as well. So can dirty wax applicators or pads.

Good luck and happy detailing.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 1:14 pm 
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i use all Adam's but it looks like you dont want to spend that much....about 80% of the correction is in the process you use and technique....have fun doing it by hand cuz that is goin to take a lot of work.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 11:26 pm 
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Wow, that was exactly what i need. I nice bit of guidance and tips. Greatly appreciated and i gained some confidence just reading it. You hit the nail on the head also as far as my "cob web" situation. So going into this and you knowing what i need to remedy is perfect.

DP 08 GXP wrote:
i use all Adam's but it looks like you dont want to spend that much....about 80% of the correction is in the process you use and technique....have fun doing it by hand cuz that is goin to take a lot of work.



I will most likely use the orbital. I understand why you should, i just always used to see my father do all car detailing by hand and i never bothered to purchase one. My moms friend left a plug in 10" orbital at my house or maybe ill just go invest in my own. Im sure once i use it ill want to again in the many years ahead of owning a car.

Also, im be sure to try and have some before, during and after pics of the process.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 7:28 pm 
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ugggg having a black car sucks donkey balls, the upkeep is insane, every spec of dust and dirt shows up, water spots are a pain in the ass, makes me want to get rid of the car sooo bad but I can't because I don't want to pay the difference between how much the car is worth today and how much the loan is

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 11:33 pm 
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It's worth it to me. I had a 94 Buick Century that was sky blue. I washed and waxed, the car had 34K miles on it and was in amazing shape. I never got that deep look out ot it though. I can stare at my car for a long time right after a wash and wax, so i will be very happy with the full process i think.

I put a cart together for the products, its not bad price wise at about $70. I will be picking up a nice D.A. for $66. Its inexpensive but i have not read one bad review on it yet.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 2:23 am 
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tod1d wrote:
ugggg having a black car sucks donkey balls, the upkeep is insane, every spec of dust and dirt shows up, water spots are a pain in the ass, makes me want to get rid of the car sooo bad but I can't because I don't want to pay the difference between how much the car is worth today and how much the loan is


Totally random but when I was on vacation in Hawaii there was a store called Donkey Balls lol.

Anyway I learned something from this thread, that I shouldn't go buffing like a mad man with a microfiber after I have applied my waxs/sealents. Maybe this is why I still have cobwebbing after I'm done with Scratch Xing the car by hand (ya that sucks donkey balls).

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 7:28 am 
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Just curious how you made out. How did the car
turn out?


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