So im in this dilemma, I always pictures just getting 2 Kicker L7 15'' subs, but now i want 3 12'' Kicker L7's so my question which set would be bang.

P.S: just a simple question dont suggest a diff brand or say Jl, FI, RE, or any the brand is the brand i CHOOSE And the box will be built accordingly powered by a POWER ACOUSTIK OVN1-5500D which is more then enough for either

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I hope you plan to sound dampen the crap out of the GP then!

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Why have more money than brains? Cuz RACE CAR :

?!? I got 2 and they work pretty well

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Why have more money than brains? Cuz RACE CAR :

15's will give you better low end thump, whereas the 12's will give better "pop". I'd personally choose 12's. You still get the bottom end bass (no where near as much as a 15) as well as the pop that a 10 inch delivers.

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Fast.Loud.Shiny

thanks thats what i needed to know

-- Sun Sep 25, 2011 12:30 pm --


POWER ACOUSTIK isnt crap if you know how to read fuses then you would know what and how to power your system instead you got kids going in the audio store taking advice from a arab guy that dont know what the hell he is talking about, just study. buddy

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You both gotta chill out. The question here isn't "which amp is better" or "who makes the better product". It's a simple question of "what woofer setup should i go with", with no right answer, but just a reply of opinion. Grow up guys.

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Fast.Loud.Shiny

I rock 1 15in kicker off a 1000 watt amp, plenty deep and slams hard as hell, dynamat your trunk no matter what you do unless you want your shit sounding like a kitchen during an earthquake

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2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STi My Build Thread
2004 Grand Prix GT2 : September 2011 GPONA COTM : SOLD
1997 Grand Prix GT1 : SOLD

I love bass too.

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3.5" MPS, 1.84 Rockers, 3" DP, Frt PEM, 39lb Injs., PowrTuner, Wizair
14.07@ 98.85mph 2.180 60'

Lmfao

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Why have more money than brains? Cuz RACE CAR :

wow. most of this thread = forehead slap.

6.5" sub hit 150 decibels. Size isn't the issue, it's installation and efficiency. Speaker size doesn't = "pop" or "fast". Design and installation is EVERYTHING.

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11 is louder than 10!!...innit?
Audio Build Logs: DIYMA and GPONA

look im not here to argue or make enemies i know a kicker amp would put out more but you did what i said you just listen to what they tell you NOW if you read the fuse output and read the number of fuses and multiple that by 10 you would have got a true output for example

PA 5500D has 5 fuses that read 20 amp out times 10 is 2000 so the true watt is 2000 max 2 l7 15s is 1000 watts each rms Hmework complete

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JMHO I use AP 1200 4-way amp for my speckers and 2 12" w/ PA 2200 amp and it was already kicking the hell out the car already. Unless your building an SPL car, I would over do it with the power and keep it moderate. Sound dampening is definitely a must! I seriously want to do it with the G8. Helps to keep out the heat from the car too.

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Why have more money than brains? Cuz RACE CAR :

No see im running 2 batteries to try to maintain the power i dont know how to do the big 3 but im learning PA is solid equipment if USED properly like any other amp on the market

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There is a DIY for the big three in the DIY section. I got the wire that goes from the alternator to the positive if you want it.

You should also get a high output alternator now that I think about it too. Doesn't matter how many batteries you have, if you can't charge the power has fast has it go out.

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Why have more money than brains? Cuz RACE CAR :

Alternator is a lot of money to spend if you don't need it though. I'm running 2kw total right now with just a G31 AGM in back and beefed up alt run and grounds (not really a big 3, but it helped) and I do get some steady decline in voltage full tilt, but it stabilizes at around 13.5. Getting an HO alt would help that, but 13 volts really isn't going to hurt anything. If you're dropping into the 11's then you may need one, but why spend $500 you don't have to?

back to the original question, if you can make the wiring work, 3 12's would be cool. Of course, you'll end up with a weird impedance load, though.

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The only useful aspect to the big 3 is introducing a PROPER ground to your audio system. Ground your equipment correctly. We don't have issues with anaemic wiring like a honda or toyota. Our biggest enemy is that the users don't properly ground their audio equipment. So if you think "big 3" will maximize the potential of your alternator then you're doing it for the wrong reasons. They should call it PROPER GROUND instead. That means maximizing the surface contact between the wire and grounding point; i.e. soldering properly and proportioned contact with said grounding point, grounding point shouldn't be a sheet of metal either.

Multiple batteries don't help or do anything when the alternator is running. Larger alternators aren't necessary in our vehicles either.




That has nothing to do with understanding the capacity of a circuit. Let's say I throw a fuse in line with my light bulb in the kitchen that's rated for 60 watts. Over 90% of that light bulb is wasted heat, or 60 watts. Just because I put an 80amp fuse in line with that bulb doesn't mean it suddenly pushes out jiga-watts of power. RMS is pure snake oil and marketing. Root Mean Square...root of average square? What the hell does it mean? It's contradictory in every sense. Electrical Engineers don't EVER USE RMS as an actual specification for circuit design or products. RMS only exists in the car audio world and it doesn't make any sense.

If that gentleman said he "clamped" the circuit and the math produced said "300 watts" I believe it. Does it tell the whole story?...not in a million years. There's a system that hits 130 decibels off 1 watt. I believe it. Design and efficiency is key to everything. If you're going to educate others use sources that they can reference.

Click here: Basic Car Audio Electronics


Original question, 2 or 3 subs. Save your money and use just two. An additional subwoofer only provides another 3 decibels to your system. Why not maximize design potential of two subs and save that cash for some danglies in the windshield or sumpin?

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11 is louder than 10!!...innit?
Audio Build Logs: DIYMA and GPONA

Well, I didn't waste a whole lot of time reading this stuff, but I did notice you saying that you know how to read the fuse ratings on an amp.. Well good job, you know some basic math.. It would tell you the "supposed" RMS power, but not the real RMS power.. not even close. And even if your amp would put out a true 3000 watts of power, figure out your impedance rise, and then figure out your wattage again.. I built a box that got me 4x impedance rise once, so the amp was seeing 16 ohm...

As for sub choice, I would do two 10's, or two 12's. Once you get up to the 15's or more than 2 12's range, there's not enough room for a well built box in the trunk of the GP..

Big 3 - Useless.

Whatever you choose, spend a lot of time on the box design.. don't just calculate one online and go with it.. it will be a fail.

If you guys want to talk power, I'll sit here and whoop up on you guys with 2 10's and just over 600 watts of power all day..

But hey, what would I know about car audio. It's not like I've ever made a 6.5" in a folded horn get close to 150 in a Mitsubishi Endeavor..






I know, a dB Drag World Finals trophy from 2007 probably doesn't prove anything either.. you can get them a dime a dozen on ebay I'm sure.

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lol. nice!

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you really dont think there is room for more then 2-12's in trunk of a grand prix? i've got 5.3 cu ft and thats just a third of the trunk

Keep it simple and do a pair of subs the output gained by adding one sub might as well add more cleaner power to a pair of subs

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2008 grand prix GXP Stock

Apparently you didn't look through my thread... I hardly had room for two 10's.... And 5.3 cuft is more than 1/3 the trunk.. someone is doing math wrong..

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youre right i did do my math wrong i had outside measurements for 5.3 but at that i found that they rate the trunk at having 16 cu ft of space granted you cant have a well built box to consume all16 cu ft.

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2008 grand prix GXP Stock

7.5 is the most you will ever get into a GP, that's if you do it very craftfully...

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I'm running 2 DC Level 4 12's in a ported box tuned to 33hz on a DC 2k and put some deadener in, but they are beating the kcuf out of the trunk right now and I need LOTS more. Make sure you deaden up the rear deck too, cause mine is moving around like a f*c*i*g retard. To be honest, the Level 4's almost too much for the car. However, with all that said I love em. I'll put up pics and do a vid tomorrow.

-- Tue Feb 21, 2012 7:43 pm --

Here she is in action today.... I didn't bang on her yet because I haven't been able to set my gains with an Oscope or DD-1 yet. When I do I'll let her rip.

Let me know what you think.

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