Well, it has come time for me to crack the lights open for the third and final time, and this time i am going to throw all my ideas into it and and give the projectors better adjustability, the proper way this time.. The first phase was to crack them open, which proved to be extremely simple with the permatex clear silicone i used. All I needed was a flat screwdriver and a razor and i had these suckers opened up again in 10 minutes. Much better than the multiple hours each the first time... I am not 100 percent sure how i am going to get the projectors mounted, but probably using the JNC method.

Step 1: Carbon Fibre - Complete



Carbon fibre was added, and IMO this should have been done with these lights straight from the factory. The Indentations were there in the first place, so this was pretty easy.

Step 2: Projector Mounting - Complete

Step 3: Add more LED's to the rings so they can be seen in the daytime, or not... - Not Complete

Step 4: Reseal and mount - Complete

_________________

I agree, the carbon fiber should have been in the first place, and I like what you did with it...

Did you have the carbon fiber overlay going in different directions on purpose? Just curious.

Good job so far.

_________________

2004 GTP Comp G. The Daily Driver.
JULY 2011 GPONA COTM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uNwgZGrvJ0
1992 GTA Trans Am. The Toy.
2003 VW Jetta. The Spousal Unit.

Haha, good call on the inlays going in opposite directions. That is getting fixed right now That shows how unobservant i am I almost have my idea down for how to get the projectors mounted, so hopefully i can snap a few more pictures to make a write up of how to do it this time. Im not going to rush it though, i know how that turned out the last two times...

_________________

Good luck with that JNC method. How bad was adjustability before? Surely there must have been a way to get the cutoff straight? And I know what you mean about rushing it. That's what I did the first time around and they turned out horrible. Which is why I myself am also redoing mine. Got some "value" morimoto minis and shrouds from the retrofit source for $75.

_________________
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT2
MODS: Wizaired|Custom DHP Tune|180° Thermostat|DR F/R Brackets w/GMPP STB's|UMI Trailing Arms|Bilstein HDs w/SSC|Projector Retro|Black SPO Grilles and Spoiler|SS Inserts Rear Inlay|ZZP Volt. Booster & Alt Rewire

You got value minis for $75!?!?!?!?!?!? Wow. That is a steal. Adjustability wasn't too bad before, but it was not a permanent solution. My passenger side headlight would not quite aim low enough, so it was a little bright for people on side streets in the city. It was fine for highway driving, and was actually better for that since the ditches lit up much better The first mounting method was kind of like the JNC method so i could do the rotational adjustments perfectly, but it was only the up and down that didnt work so well. I think the main problem before was that the projector was hitting the shroud and that was stopping it from going down any further. I am going to trim it down a bit with the dremel and hopefullly i can get some more movement out of it. I can't wait to get this done so i can finally start retrofitting the fog lights!!!

_________________

I like where this is going
And thanks for convincing me to get some of that type of sealant. I still haven't done my taillights, but need to asap.

_________________

Dubs:00 VW GTI VR6, Low and Slow 91 VW GTI 8v, Shave the Bay!! 91 VW Cabriolet 8v, bitch Basket
GP's:04 GP GT, Past now G-Ma's Girlfriend's 97 GP GT, "Project Pink Power"

Thanks Yeah, the permatex silicone seems to be working great for this type of stuff. It holds great, but if for any reason you have to reopen it, its as simple as a little prying with a screwdriver, then cutting off the remains. No heat required. Im glad i didn't use RTV because i don't think i would have been able to reopen these to fix them.

_________________

Yep. They had a thread over on HIDplanet about "scratched" morimoto minis for $90 shipped. I emailed them about it and about 3 days later Matt from TRS emailed me back saying they dropped the price to $75/pair shipped and that included gatlin gun shrouds. And there wasn't even a defect on the lense or anything. The chrome on the outside of the reflector bowl wasn't perfect. But you don't see that part anyway sooooo....they are in perfect shape for cheap. Here's the thread in case anyone wants to email them about it.

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?39024-SCRATCHED-MORIMOTO-MINI-H1-PROJECTORS-%28Pair%29&highlight=scratched+mini

_________________
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT2
MODS: Wizaired|Custom DHP Tune|180° Thermostat|DR F/R Brackets w/GMPP STB's|UMI Trailing Arms|Bilstein HDs w/SSC|Projector Retro|Black SPO Grilles and Spoiler|SS Inserts Rear Inlay|ZZP Volt. Booster & Alt Rewire

Thank you very much! I might have to put off the fog retro and get those. I was just going to use the crapppy ones that came with the projectors with an E30 lense swap... Hmmm i might just try these first and if i don't like them ill probably order those if they have any left.

_________________

I can echo what you guys are saying about taking your time and sealing issues...

Took me three attempts, but I can finally tell you that my retrofits are weather proof.

And yes, one was JB Welded...

_________________

2004 GTP Comp G. The Daily Driver.
JULY 2011 GPONA COTM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uNwgZGrvJ0
1992 GTA Trans Am. The Toy.
2003 VW Jetta. The Spousal Unit.

I haven't had any issues with sealing yet, just with mounting the projectors. If the rotation was correct on these suckers in the first place, it would be a lot easier, but no, they had to put a 30 degree angle on them I almost got them figured out and the brackets made, but i got side-tracked because i found two cans of black plasti-dip at my local Home Hardware.....

_________________

Those wheels look real good black, good stuff

_________________

2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STi My Build Thread
2004 Grand Prix GT2 : September 2011 GPONA COTM : SOLD
1997 Grand Prix GT1 : SOLD

Those wheels in black have been the ones I've wanted forever

_________________

Haha thanks. I am very happy I found those two cans of plasti dip. Those rims were pretty beat up and scratched from before I got the car. The plastidip covered It all up pretty good, they almost look like new again!

_________________

What are you using for adjustment this time? I'm going to start my second set soon and I definitely want more adjustment with these

_________________
'94 Civic hatch - Project Stickerbomb - Rusty & Slow but Gets Me Where I Need to Go

If u have an account on the hidplanet forum, go to the adjustment section and click on yhe jnc method. I will post the link when I get on my computer its hard to copy and paste on the mobile.. basicaly it gives you horiontal cutoff afjustment, up and down, and side to side! I almost had my prototype last night but one of the holes I tapped stripped out so I got some fixing to do. I intend on getting some pictures up a bit later tonight.

EDIT: Here is JnC's method: http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthr ... ability%29

Works good, hardest part is using a tap and die set to tap the brackets...

_________________

Love the Plasti Dipped Comp G rims!!!!

Man I wish it was easier to get here in Canada... Next time Im in the US, Im picking some up for sure (If I cant find it here in the mean time)!!!

_________________

2004 GTP Comp G. The Daily Driver.
JULY 2011 GPONA COTM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uNwgZGrvJ0
1992 GTA Trans Am. The Toy.
2003 VW Jetta. The Spousal Unit.

Go to Home Hardware!!!!!! I didn't ever expect them to have any, but i said what the heck and had a look, and sure enough, there was two cans of each color! I asked them if they could get me another can if i needed it, and they said they are unable to order it anymore, but if your lucky you might find some in stock. (They did charge me 17 dollars per can though....)

_________________

That is actually a really good write up. I am a little confused on a few things but I think when I get the projectors in my hand it will be self explanatory.....I hope

_________________
'94 Civic hatch - Project Stickerbomb - Rusty & Slow but Gets Me Where I Need to Go

Haha, the definition of retrofitting should be "confusing". A lot of these ideas have to be adapted your own situation, because none of this stuff is exactly the same between different headlights. I am still a bit confused on the whole thing too, but its coming together nicely, i will for sure have pics up today Again, the hardest part is properly tapping (threading) the brackets so that the bolts you are using thread in properly and will hold up. I must say that you should get extra corner brackets and bolts, just in case one step goes wrong.... (I should have listened to my own advice ).

_________________

I got my Passenger headlight to seal the first time no problem, the driver's side...not so much.

I'm taking the drivers side out today, peeling all the sealant that is on the light now and redoing it all and making it perfect and hopefully, that will do it.

After that, I'm moving on to my fog lights for a 2nd attempt.

_________________

04 Supercharged American and 01 Turbo Swede

Whats taking so long? I wanna know how the new mounting goes before I manage to get enough money to retro mine.

Did you hook up the sylinoid to the high beams or you leaving them flat? Did you make the LEDs the turnsignals too? I think I might have asked this in a different thread a while back but I dont remember lol.

_________________

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3882088

Haha sorry arepok. I ran into a lot of problems last night, and by the time i got the pics uploaded to photobucket i was too tired to post them But if you reallly want to know what my main problem was, it would be that i had my green and orange LED's wired up with a 470 ohm resistor which was good to handle about 15.5V, but i let my stereo on for a while before i took the lights out, and it drained my battery so when i restarted it the voltage hopped above 15.5V and burnt out my green LED's I had to replace those and decided to use 560 ohm resistors now to be on the safe side. I am hooking the high beams up to a switch in my console so i can use them if i really have to. They are bright enough on low, but sometimes it might be nice to use them as highs or flash someone so i will have that option . The LED's will be the turn signals this time, and i will wire them into the daytime Running Lights which are also the signal lights, so they should be on all the time and still flash when signaling. So anyways, ill give a quick update with some pics and parts, but i won't do the final write up until i know its good to go.


The main parts that you need:
1. Tap set (one with dies as well will come in handy to fix the threads on the bolts when you cut them).
2. At least 4 1/8 x 1/2" Flat head stove bolts with nuts.
3. At least 5 3/16 x 3" Round Head stove bolts with nuts as well as washers for these and a 3/16 Tap with the proper thread pattern.
4. At least 5 1/4 x 3" Round head stove bolts with nuts as well as washers and a 1/4 Tap with the proper thread pattern.
5. At least 4 (probably 6 for when things go wrong) angle things ( I think they are for shelves) These will be bottom brackets for horizontal beam and up and down adjustment.

Tools you will need:
1. Assorted screwdrivers according to what bolts you use and whatnot. I would reccomend a phillips, robertson, flat, and thats probably it.
2. A few pairs of pliers.
3. Angle grinder (dremel could be substituted with cutting disc).
4. Good Tap and Die set.
5. Drill with proper size drill bits.
6. Utility knife.
7. Metal file.

Other stuff:
1. Automotive goop.
2. Permatex clear silicone with a silicone gun (or whatever you enjoy sealing your lights with).
3. Lotsa clamps for holding lights together while sealing.

Now i will throw a few pics up, and a few little tips. (Phone pics so a bit blurry )


Bottom brackets mounted to the side holes of the morimoto minis. Held on by the little stove bolts. At least one of the big bolts must be cut or else it will touch the projector, almost inside the shroud. That would not be good.


This is the top mount. It is the middle size 3" bolt, and the projectors top hole was tapped for the proper size. A new hole was drilled in the hosing just bellow that vent thingy and directly center with it. This will allow the projector to sit pretty well center with the shroud, and have the proper horizontal angle (It looks pretty screwed up sitting at that angle, but thats how its supposed to sit, no worries).


This is what it looks like with projector out. You can remove that one mount in the top left if you wish. It just screws out with a very tiny philips screwdriver. I should also mention that you have to remove the other two bottom original mounting bolts. They are very tough to get out, but a lot of prying will do it. They have somewhat "retaining" washers holding them on, so if you can break those, the bolt will pull right out the back.



The Nuts on the big bolts were gooped(or loctited) to the threads so that the bolt doesn't back out when adjusting. Allow this to dry for a while.



Basically that is a very rough draft of what happens, in no particular order. Ill let you know how it works in a few hours when the silicone is dry, but i tested each light on the car and they cutoff was perfect and at the proper height.

_________________

Jeez. so how about you just sell me those and i'll give you mine and you can do it again lol.

_________________

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3882088

So do these housings allow for vertical adjustment since the projector is attached to the housing and not to the reflector like us retro peeps?

_________________
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT2
MODS: Wizaired|Custom DHP Tune|180° Thermostat|DR F/R Brackets w/GMPP STB's|UMI Trailing Arms|Bilstein HDs w/SSC|Projector Retro|Black SPO Grilles and Spoiler|SS Inserts Rear Inlay|ZZP Volt. Booster & Alt Rewire