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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:29 am 
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REbuild all started because of this.

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So start over with another l26 block. 08 w/ under 17k miles.

The mod list for this motor:

T66 Turbonetics
Meth Injection
Treadstone TR10
stock L26 bottom end
Ported L67 tb w/ LT1 MAF
L26 intake w/ HV3
L67 heads w/ viton seals & 130# springs
1.6 Yella Terra RR's
65# injectors on PRJ rails
Rollmaster dbl roller
Meziere electric water pump
Front plog and stock rear mani with turned #6 primary
3" downpipe


Got everything out, most of it put back in and then realized they switched to metal front cover gaskets? Can't even find paper ones locally, so I had to order them from ZZP and wait. Hate that.

While doing that I decided to replace some things that bothered me. First was the fuel lines and how the connected to the PRJ rails. So unbolt the MC from the booster to get some room to the lines behind the ABS.

Cut the nylon lines off, used 5/16 compression to 3/8 JIC fitting and 3/8 compression to 3/8 JIC with some -6 AN fittings and stainless line.

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Mostly put back together, was just waiting on gaskets. Decided to get a new JWIS chain while it was apart.

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So close yet so far away.

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Now to today:


wow, talk about a tight fit. Try squeezing a 3" downpipe between a turbo crossover, valve cover and brake booster/master cylinder when you have engine/trans spacers along with shortened dogbones..... it flexes the bb/mc when the engine rocks.

Anyway, painted the block and heads. Put on a new JWIS chain, 3 front cover gaskets, a new front seal and cam bolt. Going to get an aluminum rear valve cover and get it powder coated to match the front. I found the corner on the rear cover closest to the turbo downpipe is warped and sits a bit higher than the rest. Wish it weren't such a PITA to change.

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Engine spacers installed on lower mount, oil pan on, plog on. I was heat wrapping the rear mani and welding nuts on the flange.

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The motor is back in now, turbo in and top downpipe connected. Everything is bolted together, starter in etc. Just a few things left.

Did a major clean up of the wiring harness, I think it makes a huge difference in giving a clean look.

I should have it running in next couple days... can't wait. I'll get some different pics and a video of it.


Last edited by r.s.hutchinson on Fri Jul 15, 2011 6:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 6:29 pm 
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Looks really good, did you machine the JWIS chain before putting it on?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 6:34 pm 
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Lookin awesome.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 8:30 am 
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rocket69GTP wrote:
Looks really good, did you machine the JWIS chain before putting it on?


Why would I machine the chain....

You can machine the oil pump cover to make the chain clear or double up the gaskets. I used 3 gaskets and it cleared just fine.

Car starts, runs good so far. Am now fixing a few other small things. Wiring was a mess from the previous owner(s). Had a huge draw on it that would kill batteries. Somehow when installing the alarm/remote start they ended up constantly powering something was supposed to be a switched 12 volt. Just about done!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 9:08 am 
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Looking great, glad to see your still at it!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 4:41 pm 
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I would be more worried about that smaller sprocket fitting over the crank itself since these were not designed for the American motors unless they have changed that recently.

http://www.thechicagogarage.com/forum/s ... 962&page=2

Here is some good info on the problems with it.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 5:49 pm 
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subscribed ...what kind of power are you shooting for?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:39 pm 
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rocket69GTP wrote:
I would be more worried about that smaller sprocket fitting over the crank itself since these were not designed for the American motors unless they have changed that recently.

http://www.thechicagogarage.com/forum/s ... 962&page=2

Here is some good info on the problems with it.


forgot about that.

yup the american vertion has the 45* cut on the crank wile the aussie vertion (what they used to test fid the double rollers) is a 90* square cut

oddly enough the single roller chains seems to be desigend for the american cranks becuase they have the 45* cut in them

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:44 pm 
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rocket69GTP wrote:
I would be more worried about that smaller sprocket fitting over the crank itself since these were not designed for the American motors unless they have changed that recently.

http://www.thechicagogarage.com/forum/s ... 962&page=2

Here is some good info on the problems with it.


Hey, that's my thread!

OP, you should really get that timing chain machined. Removing material from the oil pump is not a good band-aid.

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Turbocharged400sbc wrote:
thats it though...engineers didnt think some fucktards would be modding 3800's

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Last edited by AjL227 on Mon Jul 18, 2011 8:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 7:10 pm 
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i have never seen oil pressure go down by machining the cover as the cover has nothing to do with controling oil pressure. the side that has the pressurised oil is not loosing any material only the back side that faces the chain

but i do agree it is a cheap band-aid. so is double gasketing witch can couse leaks

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 4:50 pm 
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Rodman wrote:
subscribed ...what kind of power are you shooting for?


No power goals really in mind, or track times. Just want to enjoy driving it for right now. I do plan on a dyno maybe later this summer or next year. I feel that it is capable of 500+ whp though with the mods in it with a good tune. This is on 91 pump gas w/ methanol.

rocket69GTP wrote:
I would be more worried about that smaller sprocket fitting over the crank itself since these were not designed for the American motors unless they have changed that recently.



I appreciate the concerns about the timing gears. These gears have been used on other blocks before with no issues pertaining to the timing set. I do not know if the gears were chamferred or not. However, I personally know a few people, and many people on other forums, running these timing sets with no modifications and no failures. I do not have any doubts that this chain and gear set will be fine and cause me no issues.

I am uploading pics right now. The car runs great aside from needing an alignment.

-- Fri Jul 15, 2011 5:12 pm --

Wire Tuck

All laid out and taped up. You can see the hack bracket bolted to the LIM I made to hold the wiring up away from the crossover and downpipe. I later heat wrapped and heat reflective taped the wiring that is close to the crossover.
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This is just behind the UIM on the backside of the motor.
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Braided Fuel Lines and Vacuum Block
I need to order some nylon tubing. No one local has it in the size I need for the methanol. That's why I have the bolt stuck in the line just off the throttle body. It's very ghetto and dangerous lol.

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It's so hard to make a turbo bay clean, so much stuff. I have to primer and fill the scratches in the rad support, then I can paint it black to match the rest. It's throwing everything off right now I think.
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Then I can give everything a good wash to make it shine!!


Last edited by r.s.hutchinson on Fri Jul 15, 2011 6:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 10:35 pm 
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that looks REALLY GOOD ! keep up the good work man !!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 11:16 am 
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That looks awesome keep up the work.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 9:36 pm 
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That looks incredible. Very nice job on the wiring harness, makes me regret not going further with mine.

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Turbocharged400sbc wrote:
thats it though...engineers didnt think some fucktards would be modding 3800's

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 12:21 pm 
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It's not too hard, just a bit time consuming. I mostly guessed at the lengths of things and luckily it came out right.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 9:12 am 
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That is the cleanest engine bay I have ever seen man. Great job. What kind if trans do u have?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 1:40 pm 
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It's a 4t65e.

1" GMR 3.29 gearset. ZZP 4340 IS, ZZP pump shaft, thrasher shift kit. The output shaft has a ton of play (could tell when replacing the axles) and pops when I turn and back up and then pops back again when you start driving forward. Probably going to need a rebuild sometime so I may change to an Intense IS, zzp 4th gear shaft and updated clutch packs. May change to billet flex plate and converter but not sure. See what happens when/if it does go.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 6:28 pm 
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You're doing it right.

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