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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 10:31 pm 
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I have a 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix that needs a wiring harness. A month or so back there was an underhood fire that destroyed the engine wiring harness. Now the search is on to find one. I have searched locally and found ones that have been cut but it is too complicated to splice in. If anyone has or knows where I can find the engine wiring harness, the one with the black box that goes in the fusebox and also connects to the computer, please let me know. It needs to be complete or as close to complete as can be. As long as it has the fuse box end and computer connectors, it can be used. It is for a SE Non-Supercharged with a 3.8 engine. Price needs to be under $80.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 10:37 pm 
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ohh that really limits you to only 1997

eather a GT (non supercharged) or a SE with the 3.8

if you also wanted to change the trans to the non-vac assisted one you could get a harness from any none supercharged 3800 GP


i would try and contac Morad

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 1:54 am 
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Give me a few days and let me see what I can come up with. ( check to make sure that i haven't cut the one I have.) I may have the one left from my 97.


But Mater I do believe to get away from the vac assist trans it would have to be a 97 gtp harness and i don't think it can be reprogramed for n/a app.



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 2:03 am 
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really?

i thought any engine bay harness would work for the trans swap seeing as they all have the same C100 bulkhead connector

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 12:35 am 
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Alright, bigdog9191999. Well just let me know whenever you find out. Would you be willing to ship it to me if it is available?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:07 am 
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sorry i forgot about this, and yes i would ship if it is still in tact..


and mater i belive the difference is the 97 gtp still uses the "97" style pcm, but has the newer style trans plug. and i belive there are some compatibility issues with the newer pcm's and the 97' bcm setup. making some gauges and controls not work as intended.

so the short answer is no, i do not belive any harness will work, i belive you must retain the 97 style pcm. so must have a 97 gtp harness to get the gtp syle ( " newer" ) trans plug/ harness.

because of my distraction and delay, i have to work for the next few days, but i will try to examine my harnesses and figure out which one is the 97 and see if it is still in tact. (i belive so, but at worst it may have a plug or two missing. (as i do belive the rear O2 is cut off)).

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 1:17 pm 
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ahh i compleatly and utterly forgot about the 97 PCM being diffrent becuase fo the large knock module

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 3:13 pm 
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not sure what it is that is different but it is physically larger, and seems like the plugs where just a little different.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 8:02 pm 
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OK. Good news bad news..

Good news - I have the harness and the only thing missing is the rear o2 just like I thought.

What is wrong can be fixed


Bad - I didn't remember doing it till I saw it but I cut one of the " bundles " of wires that goes into the fuse box plug. But they can be reconnected.

Pic is blurry sorry I damaged my cell cam and it is the only thing I have left to take pics with at the moment

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 8:47 pm 
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Well first, which of the bundles is cut? What does it lead to?

Second, how much do you want for it?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:16 pm 
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Not sure on what those wires did. I realized that I had run some other wires that I really didn't want to cut so i decided that I would cut the harness I wouldn't be needing but I did it in such a way that if I had to I could splice it back in. Pm me with an offer and zip code I can check shipping and or get it shipped ( Tuesday would be when I could do it.)

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 1:24 pm 
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Any updates?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 2:56 pm 
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Harness came in the mail yesterday and I repaired it. Got up this morning and put it on. Didn't crank at first but found out I had a blown ecm fuse. Replaced it and now it is sitting in the driveway purring.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:18 pm 
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Glad it is working!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 9:21 pm 
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There are a couple more wiring issues but I will get them worked out tomorrow. Thanks for the help.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 3:56 pm 
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everything was there then? i didnt notice anything missing but the rear O2.

that will support a top swap too, if you ever go that route, but you will be stuck with that trans.. (as me how i know...he he he he)

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 6:34 pm 
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There was another plug that had the clip broken off but i spliced in another connector. And there were a couple of the injector hold on pieces missing but i was able to take care of it. Well it ran fine for a little while. I now have a bad miss of I know at least 1, possibly two cylinders are missing or just aren't firing. I went back through and mad sure all connections were firm and they were. Also my speedometer stopped working. Check engine is on but other than that everything works. Any clues what this could be?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 5:52 am 
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The plug was for the front Knock sensor wasn't it? And yeh I think I may have had to swipe a couple of the injector retainers off the plugs now that i think about it..

As for the miss or speedo not sure without doing some hands on testing. Easiest way I can think of foe the miss would be pull injector plugs or plug wires off one at a time and see which one doesn't change the way it runs. Then check spark and fuel to that cylinder. New plugs? Did the injectors get burned? Coil pack? There are several items that could do it, so start simple and find which one and test the components that operate it before just throwing parts in the mix.

Keep me updated and I will try to help as much as I can


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The following people have thanked the author bigdog9191999 for this post Madscientist1997 (Wed Jan 18, 2012 11:11 am)
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 11:10 am 
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Well went out this morning and tested the injector theory. Turns out I have two bad injectors. Checked at AutoZone and they want $90 bucks a piece for them. Any chance you have any around? Also, my pressure sensor somehow has gotten cracked and isn't sitting properly. What issues will this cause?


Last edited by Madscientist1997 on Wed Jan 18, 2012 11:21 am, edited 4 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 12:24 pm 
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I would check with your local yard for the injectors. There are 4 10mm nuts that hold the fuel rail down . Pull the injector retainer and the injector should come out with some effort. Don't forget to get NEW o - rings for them. ( all of them if you have them off. No sense risking a leak and fire for a couple dollars in o - rings. They can rip or tear easy so replace them) grab one or two extra ( or the whole set and just use what you need.) If your yard wants an arm and leg for them let me know. I should have some, or can get them easy and pretty cheap from my local yard.


And which pressure sensor? Location or pic?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 7:44 pm 
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It is the Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor. I got the codes read at AutoZone today and they came up with: P0107, P0753, and P0758. Any idea if you have an old one lying around? Turns out the injectors were all good so I pulled the plugs to see if they were fouled and they weren't. Would the MAP Sensor cause this funky idle with no change in idle when I unplugged the 2 injectors? And with my speedometer not working I figured the Speed sensor was tripping those codes.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:25 pm 
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the map is a seconday sensor as long as the maf is working the computer should not even be looking at the map unplug it and see if it clears out

unplugging those 2 injectors means those 2 cylinders are not doing any thing eather no compretion, no air, no fuel, or no spark

what 2 cylinders are they? if they are companon cylinders coild be a bad coil cuasing them to not fire

P0107 is just sensor low voltage it does not meant he sensor is actualy bad it just means the computer is not seeing the correcto voltage. you need to test the cuircate to actualy see what is worng with a voltmeter

P0758 is the 1-2 shift solinoid http://www.docstoc.com/docs/70647307/DT ... Electrical

P0758 is the 2-3 shift solinoid

i would clear the codes and wiggle the harness to see if that makes the light comes on it alsmost sounds liejt here is a break some where

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:27 am 
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They are the front two on the passenger side. The rear three all work. I took a test meter and found out there is no power to those two objectors. I get a reading of about 14.6 on every other injected but those two. Were there any others cuts than the one that had all the wires cut? Anything else that could cause to power to those two seeing as the aren't companions?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:35 am 
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I didn't cut anything else. But I don't know if part of that is controlled by the part that was cut. I would check for good connections at that splice. Like start car then try wiggling those wires and see if the miss goes away.

Hard to think of what else to do without being with the car

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 2:16 pm 
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14 seems varry high should only be battery voltage of 12-13.6

but those 2 cylanders are not connected and beicuse the injectors are not getting power thats your problem. no is the fun part take those onjector wires and follow allong the harness untill you find the brake in the wire


tryed finding an injector harness wiring diagram but i do not have one for a 97 L36

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