First post on the forums so here goes.
My 01' GT with 142k developed a no warning rod knock a couple of weeks ago, no lights or codes, oil on the full mark with no noticable signs of oil contamination.
I checked all the local salvage yards within reasonable driving distance for a replacement engine, the cheapest I found was 800 bucks for a running motor with over 150k miles.
I can't replace the car right now so I've decided to just rebuild the engine.
I've rebuilt a lot of engines over the years but not one of these.
I've been doing some research on this type of engine and have been told by a number of people that there are a lot of rebuild failures.
So my question is this.
Is this engine really that hit or miss on rebuilds or is it more a case of people not paying enough attention to detail on the rebuild itself?
i.e. Not checking the bearing oil clearances, reusing Torque to Yield bolts instead of replacing them, reusing components without checking them close enough ect.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions.

Jim

From my understanding, it is as much to do with how GM put them together the first time that makes them difficult to rebuild. What you might consider doing is getting a salvage yard engine complete and swapping it in. Then, take yours, and do some quality research and rebuild it. Then, you can do performance work to it as well, at your leisure, and as your wallet allows.

_________________
One Big Ass Mistake America

I'm still checking the yards around here but so far all the engines I've found have been very high mileage and at prices that are close to the cost of a rebuild.
But I do understand what you're saying and I agree it's a good idea.
I found some interesting things in the Haynes and Chilton manuals on this engine, namely that neither mentions that you can't reuse the main or rod cap bolts.
Also, neither of them details the specific proceedures for removing and installing the main caps like the GM Service manual does to keep from damaging them and the bearings.
I wonder how many rebuilds have come apart due to lack of information like that?
If you rebuild one of these like you'd rebuild a small block Chevy I doubt it would make it around the block.
I don't have to be in a big hurry to rebuild this one since I'm driving my truck to work so I have time to do as much research as I need to.
I've found a lot of things about this engine that could come back to bite you later but I figure if you know about the specific pitfalls you can probably avoid most of them.
Thanks again for the advice.

Jim

i rebuilt my l67 and the only reason it isnt running now is i chipped pistons, ( fuel issue, not build issue) so i dont know where ppl have issues at.. like you said not reuse tty bolts, check your specs and i dont see why you shouldnt be good to go.

_________________

2001 white gt coupe with enough crap to make it run mid 13's with 3 bad pistons
2002 40th GTP sedan mostly stock

i think the issue is people reuse the rod and main cap bolts thinking they are like a SBC. they are nto and have to be replaced to clamp it correctly

if you get all new bolts i see no reason for it to not work just check clearance and specs on the barrings

_________________

92 LeBaron Convert: Turbo 3L 97 Grand Prix GT 4dr "Frankenstein": L67 4t65 swap
97 Grand Marquis: Summer DD 99 Grand Prix GTP: Top Swap Beater

I've still got to disassemble the engine and mic. everything but I already know I'm going to have to replace the crankshaft.
I'm also going to have to get a crank kit since there isn't anywhere local that can turn a crank.
I've about decided on the kit from Standard Crankshaft Co. since they supply Clevite 77 bearings with their kit, unless one of you folks knows of a better product.
I'm definately open to suggestions on parts suppliers.
I'm looking at ZZP for the rings, gasket set, cam and balancer shaft bearings, timing set and oil pump rebuild kit, since they have better prices on the good quality parts than the local parts places do.
Since I'm an old man I'm planning on going back stock, would it be worth the expense to get the head stud kit or just go back with regular head bolts?
I'm not very familiar with this type of engine so I definately appreciate you guys taking the time to answering my noob questions.

Jim

i t would proably be cheaper to just get a low milage L26 then it would be to replace the crank and all that

just my opinion

_________________

92 LeBaron Convert: Turbo 3L 97 Grand Prix GT 4dr "Frankenstein": L67 4t65 swap
97 Grand Marquis: Summer DD 99 Grand Prix GTP: Top Swap Beater

I would go with head studs if your planning on running a lot of boost.... if your just going back to stock then go with the head bolts.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk

_________________

I too agree, that if your gonna have to replace all that and are just looking for stock I would definitely say a low mileage bottom end or a complete lower mile motor. Would be cheaper and quicker.

Sent from my DROID X using my Thumbs via Tapatalk

_________________

2001 white gt coupe with enough crap to make it run mid 13's with 3 bad pistons
2002 40th GTP sedan mostly stock

Wish I could find a replacement at a decent price but so far everything I've found that's running is high mileage and high priced.
I can get complete engines at Pull-a-Part dirt cheap but I don't know if they run and the people there don't either.
You mention the L26, what would be involved in replacing my existing L36 with the 26?
I understand they have a different type of UIM and throttle body but that's about all I know about them.

Check out Morad Part's Company for a low mileage bottom end if you don't want to go through a rebuild.

_________________

Dubs:00 VW GTI VR6, Low and Slow 91 VW GTI 8v, Shave the Bay!! 91 VW Cabriolet 8v, bitch Basket
GP's:04 GP GT, Past now G-Ma's Girlfriend's 97 GP GT, "Project Pink Power"

you would need a TB adapter to run the cable TB and use your fuel rail and injectors

this also gets you the aluminum UIM

_________________

92 LeBaron Convert: Turbo 3L 97 Grand Prix GT 4dr "Frankenstein": L67 4t65 swap
97 Grand Marquis: Summer DD 99 Grand Prix GTP: Top Swap Beater

If I remember correctly you can get an adapter and put your TB on the newer intake and ditch the plastic. That is about the extent of the differences that i am aware of

Sent from my DROID X using my Thumbs via Tapatalk

_________________

2001 white gt coupe with enough crap to make it run mid 13's with 3 bad pistons
2002 40th GTP sedan mostly stock

Yes, here's a link to the adapter plate that ZZP makes. It's crazy priced, but it's the only option I'm aware of.

http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/1 ... Plate.aspx

_________________

Dubs:00 VW GTI VR6, Low and Slow 91 VW GTI 8v, Shave the Bay!! 91 VW Cabriolet 8v, bitch Basket
GP's:04 GP GT, Past now G-Ma's Girlfriend's 97 GP GT, "Project Pink Power"

You're right, that price is kinda steep.
I can get the crank kit for the L36 for $194.00 plus $14.00 shipping.
The estimated rebuild cost if the block doesn't have to be bored is right at a grand for parts and machine shop work.

Morad's online store is closed at the moment but I'll keep checking back and see what kind of prices they have for a longblock.
I suspect the freight charges will be kinda pricey though considering the weight and distance involved.

But thanks for the suggestions and advice.

Jim