just wondering how it works ( like how does it give more horse power)

Less air restrictions vs stock

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Why have more money than brains? Cuz RACE CAR :

It also changes the flow velocity. The longer runners in the stock one increase low rpm flow velocity thus giving you a little better low end power, but those long runners become more restrictive than helpful when at higher rpms. Some cars actually have intake tracts that change lengths depending on rpms.

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Dubs:00 VW GTI VR6, Low and Slow 91 VW GTI 8v, Shave the Bay!! 91 VW Cabriolet 8v, bitch Basket
GP's:04 GP GT, Past now G-Ma's Girlfriend's 97 GP GT, "Project Pink Power"

yup the HV insert shortens the runners by 5" and turns the upper plenum into a big open area

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92 LeBaron Convert: Turbo 3L 97 Grand Prix GT 4dr "Frankenstein": L67 4t65 swap
97 Grand Marquis: Summer DD 99 Grand Prix GTP: Top Swap Beater

Having just installed one running a canned tune, zzp downpipe, and an intake, I can honestly say it does help. It's subtle and I'm sure would be more of a kick with rockers, but it does definitely pull a lot better in the upper revs. It's surprising, but after 2 hours of unbolting and fighting to get the fuel rail out of the way, I would say it's worth it.

Wat and where is the hv3 intake insert?

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07 GP(base)ol' whitey, Headers/3"DP, CAI, 180*stat, HV3. Im the HotRodder with the HotRod!

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Dubs:00 VW GTI VR6, Low and Slow 91 VW GTI 8v, Shave the Bay!! 91 VW Cabriolet 8v, bitch Basket
GP's:04 GP GT, Past now G-Ma's Girlfriend's 97 GP GT, "Project Pink Power"

The part that took me the longest puting mine in was using the dremel. You have to dremel up to 1/4 inch off in some places to make an L36 HV3 fit in an L26 UIM. Worth it- i think so

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DIY intake-HV3-3" catless dp-180 tsat-DIY shift kit-murphy custom tune

That only applies if you buy one for an L36 though. They do make one for the L26.

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2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT2
MODS: Wizaired|Custom DHP Tune|180° Thermostat|DR F/R Brackets w/GMPP STB's|UMI Trailing Arms|Bilstein HDs w/SSC|Projector Retro|Black SPO Grilles and Spoiler|SS Inserts Rear Inlay|ZZP Volt. Booster & Alt Rewire

correct, but i bought mine used for 100 bucks, so i save 100 bucks in exchange for a half hour of dremeling. And something else to note about the HV3 you can use a L36 hv3 in an l26 with modifying, but you can NOT use a hv3 from a l26 in an l36

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DIY intake-HV3-3" catless dp-180 tsat-DIY shift kit-murphy custom tune

I would have never thought there was plastic under the intake, now i know. Im gonna add it to my list.

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07 GP(base)ol' whitey, Headers/3"DP, CAI, 180*stat, HV3. Im the HotRodder with the HotRod!

Its nice that the runners are not molded into the intake making it a permanent part or we all would be SOL.

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2007 Pontiac Grand Prix
CAI, HV3, ER Rockers, PLOG, Overkill Tune
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2990036

Here the test dyno results for HV3: http://easyperformance.com/Tech_Info/HV ... ntent.html

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07 GP(base)ol' whitey, Headers/3"DP, CAI, 180*stat, HV3. Im the HotRodder with the HotRod!

i have heard people remove the stock runners and get a similar effect... i know low end will suffer but topend will gain. anyone try this?

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Florida Tuner
96 Z34 LQ1 14.81@92.2 P&P Intake/TB,3.73's,L67 injectors, UDP, 2.5" Exhaust
L36 Swap: 3.29's,SD hdrs,Ported: Topswap, N*TB, SLP 1.8RR, 105#, Si Valves

Someone on gpf modified there stock ones and it worked. I dont know the details, and i wouldnt try it. If you dont wanna pay new price there are plenty of people demodding that you could get one from

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DIY intake-HV3-3" catless dp-180 tsat-DIY shift kit-murphy custom tune

im going topswap in a few months... just figured it would give me back some of the top end i miss from my DOHC. actually i think i may just do it in preperation for the topswap anyway... without the runners it will have similar lenght runners to when the topswap is out of boost. should allow me to get the VE more dialed in.

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Florida Tuner
96 Z34 LQ1 14.81@92.2 P&P Intake/TB,3.73's,L67 injectors, UDP, 2.5" Exhaust
L36 Swap: 3.29's,SD hdrs,Ported: Topswap, N*TB, SLP 1.8RR, 105#, Si Valves

If you gunna top swap in a couple months dont waste your time on this. I did notice a good top end pull increase, but its a waste to spend 200 bucks on something you cant use after you topswap. Now if you werent doin the swap til sext year then i would get it.

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DIY intake-HV3-3" catless dp-180 tsat-DIY shift kit-murphy custom tune

Removing the runners all together seems like a terrible idea to me since the LIM has ports that are "raised up" from the LIM, thus air flow would be crazy turbulent and would have even less distance to pick up velocity inside the ports therefore hurting low end power even more than with an HV3. The HV3 does exactly that, makes sure air flow doesn't go past the ports and make flow into them more laminar yet still have a long enough distance to gain decent velocity for low end, aside from it's obvious job of shortening air travel compared to the stock runners.

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Dubs:00 VW GTI VR6, Low and Slow 91 VW GTI 8v, Shave the Bay!! 91 VW Cabriolet 8v, bitch Basket
GP's:04 GP GT, Past now G-Ma's Girlfriend's 97 GP GT, "Project Pink Power"

No, no i didnt mean i was going to buy a HV3.... i was thinking of removing the runners all together... yes it will hurt low end.... but the reasoning behind it is for me to jump start and get a VE tune complete before doing the topswap... as i figure without the runners the empty upper would more closely simulate the empty LIM of the l67 and the free spinning rotors.

but yeah we just got our cold snap here in florida.. 30's.... was 77 xmas day so by the time it gets warm enough for me to want to rip into it, it will be time to do the swap anyhow. i can always just pull the belt on the SC and do the VE tune that way.

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Florida Tuner
96 Z34 LQ1 14.81@92.2 P&P Intake/TB,3.73's,L67 injectors, UDP, 2.5" Exhaust
L36 Swap: 3.29's,SD hdrs,Ported: Topswap, N*TB, SLP 1.8RR, 105#, Si Valves

As I said in the post above, removing the runners and putting nothing in place of them is a bad idea due to huge turbulence, crazy short intake path (shorter than with an HV3), and air flow that can go "past" the runner inlet and thus have to do a 180* turn to get back into them (not exactly a good flow dynamic). If you're goal is to simulate a L67 LIM and S/C casing, than you should take a closer look at how air actually flows through them because it's not even close to how a L36 (even without runners) flows. A large volumed runnerless plenum is vastly different from a S/C casing which actually does direct flow into the runners of an LIM which, in itself, is also quite different from an L36.

Go for it if you want, but your tune will be pretty pointless IMO if you are tuning for a design that's worse than stock free spinning L67 setup.

Just my .02. Do things right the first time and not try to cut corners for future mods. The flow characteristics between a L67 (freespinning) vs a runnerless L36 is a big enough difference to fudge up a tune.

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Dubs:00 VW GTI VR6, Low and Slow 91 VW GTI 8v, Shave the Bay!! 91 VW Cabriolet 8v, bitch Basket
GP's:04 GP GT, Past now G-Ma's Girlfriend's 97 GP GT, "Project Pink Power"

Well i installed my HV3 and now i have fluxuating or bouncing idle. But my GP has some balls now like, leaving black 11s on the road. I also did a tune-up and put Iridiums spark-plugs in.

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07 GP(base)ol' whitey, Headers/3"DP, CAI, 180*stat, HV3. Im the HotRodder with the HotRod!

check for a vaccum leak

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DIY intake-HV3-3" catless dp-180 tsat-DIY shift kit-murphy custom tune

Ok, thanx. Got my Overkill PCM installed and MSD coils and now my car runs like a champ.

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07 GP(base)ol' whitey, Headers/3"DP, CAI, 180*stat, HV3. Im the HotRodder with the HotRod!

msd coils=fail...get ready to put the stockers back on within a couple months. also make sure where the brake booster hose goes into the uim, thats easy to overlook and not put back in all the way for it too seal.

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SMGPFC #100

X2 Not that I have any personal experience on the matter, but that seems to be the general consensus.