I'm trying to decide on the best intake for me I have an 04 gtp comp g and I hear k&N is the best but I have also heard wizaired is the best too. I tried searching for the pros and cons of each and couldnt find anything. so K&N, Thrasher, or Wizaired?

I also noticed that on thrashers website they have options between gtp and gtp comp g whats the diff in the two?

As far as intakes go, there's no difference.

Which is the best (K&N & Wizaired)..... that's been a debate for years now. Truthfully neither has significant gains over the other so it's more of a preference. I have never paid any real attention to Thrasher so I can't help you there.

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I went with the Wizair for the looks (Check out my garage).....Otherwise they BOTH perform as good as the other!!! JMO

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K&N here, no complaints.

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Same here.

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K&N CAI/Flips Custom Headlights, Tail Lights, Reverse Light,Brake Light/Front STB/Magnaflow Exhaust

2008 Grand Prix GXP

Does anyone have Air Intake Temperatures with there CAI? I've noticed that mine is usually 14-20 degrees hotter than the outside air temperature, which really doesn't make me happy. I have the K&N kit.

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06 GT *Overkill PCM*K&N CAI*180 T-Stat*Don's brackets w/ GMPP Strut Tower Braces*LED Tails*6000K HID w/ wbody relay kit (mod'ed for +06)*USA Spec iPod Interface w/ iPhone*Kicker L5 12"

I have the Wizaired and with my commute mostly stop and go in 80* F temps my IAT's will hit 140* F.

Normal fwy driving cruising at ~80 mph I see IAT's ~5 - 10* over ambient during the hotter months and ~3 - 5* over ambient in the cooler months.

They are both great intakes and you'll be happy with which ever you end up with. Each has it's own pros and cons, but the cons for both are small. IMO, The Wizaired looks better and is sealed better, but the K&N has a better PCM mount.

As far as being able to actually quantify the difference in IATs after installing a CAI, I found the temps all over the place and couldn't get any useful data. Without the CAI I'd be running 15 F over ambient temp one moment, 30 F the next. I see the same thing with the CAI. I just run on the assumption that I am better off with the CAI because physics says it has to be so.

Demitri if you decide on one let me know, maybe we can split shipping

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2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP 50,000 miles - Gutted Box, Flipped Upper Mounts, Slotted Rotors, LS1M Scanner - Remember To Scan! Scan! Scan!

That Wizaired sounds like it's trapping some heat in there! Either option is goo, but I just think that the open design of the K&N may not trap the heat as much.

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I guarantee that the K&N would heat soak just as much as the Wizaire with my stop and go(mostly stop) commute in 80* + temps. As soon as I start moving at fwy speeds the temps drop right away.

It's not the Wizaire that is trapping in head, it's the engine bay trapping in heat ans heat soaking everything. Under hood temps get pretty high when you are not moving.

It does. With stop and go the K&N will be even higher than the outside air temp. For example, the other day i saw it at 111 until I got moving.

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06 GT *Overkill PCM*K&N CAI*180 T-Stat*Don's brackets w/ GMPP Strut Tower Braces*LED Tails*6000K HID w/ wbody relay kit (mod'ed for +06)*USA Spec iPod Interface w/ iPhone*Kicker L5 12"

Anyone else ever get tired of the 2hp debate on intakes?

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39# inj, LQ4, FWI, Jardine exh, OBX hdrs, PT, AL104s, PRJ Wires, DEI boots, 180 stat, 3.4 MPS, MSP poly eng mnts, F&R STBs w/ DR brkts, poly sway bar bushings, painted tails, SPO grills, spoiler & tips

Not really about 2 hp more about preventing knock when I mod and making sure I do what I can when I'm droppin 300 bucks on an intake.

Check around, there are a couple of people who made their own FWI for less than $35 not including the filter. This wil give you the coldest intake air as possible.

like this one

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn90 ... rix005.jpg

it's posted here

http://www.gpona.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3859

Ihad one of these on my 97 and the intake temps where much lower than when I had my other setup.

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Under Construction

You mentioned knock. That's something we can discuss. One thing that can happen is that your intake is too good for your other mods... if your exhaust is too restrictive. If you can't get the air out of the motor fast enough you get kr. My car couldn't move enough air with the stock intake and a 3.4" pulley in Denver (5200ft) to get much kr with only a dp. Once I built my FWI I had kr. I also went from a max of 7.5 lbs to 11.5 lbs. I started moving more air than my car could exhaust. Now I'm at sea level and having trouble keeping the kr under control with a 3.6" pulley. If my intake were a little more restrictive I would have less kr because the engine wouldn't being overfed. Some call it boost stacking. I don't want to switch to a more restrictive intake or a stock pulley to be able to run a stock timimg table. I have my own reasons for wanting to run stock timing right now. That means I've got to do something that opens up the exhaust. Plog, pems, headers, ported outlet on the SC, cam, higher ratio rockers, head work, something along those lines. Things that won't help me anymore - an even less restrictive intake, opening up the inlet of the SC, or a smaller pulley. But once the back side of my engine is opened up further so that I can move more air, my intake will make more hp than something more restrictive. That's why some mods seem to work better on some cars than others. It's about balancing what can come in with what can go out, spark, & fuel. That's why the best part doesn't always give the best results. Tests will show what you want them to if you know what you're doing. The mod that's going to give you the most punch is elimnating the most limiting thing in the powertrain. The rest is just gravy.

Steven

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39# inj, LQ4, FWI, Jardine exh, OBX hdrs, PT, AL104s, PRJ Wires, DEI boots, 180 stat, 3.4 MPS, MSP poly eng mnts, F&R STBs w/ DR brkts, poly sway bar bushings, painted tails, SPO grills, spoiler & tips

Oh, what I meant to say that none of the intakes are going to be your limiting mod unless it's something you did a poor job designing. They all provide very similiar benefits and only in extreme cases does one differ over another more than a few hp. If you want to make the most hp/$ build your own. Otherwise buy one of the good ones and not one of the pos ebay ones. The better it is the more of a chance of kr will be, lol. Mods are like that sometime they can be more than you need at the time but may payoff well on down the line. Having a less than optimal intake will let you run a little smaller pulley but that doesn't necessarily mean hp. A less restrictive intake means you don't have to run as small a pulley to get the same boost. And remember the higher the boost the greater the tendency to knock. Lowering boost while raising flow is what we really want to do. At least until it's time to go whipple or turbo, .

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39# inj, LQ4, FWI, Jardine exh, OBX hdrs, PT, AL104s, PRJ Wires, DEI boots, 180 stat, 3.4 MPS, MSP poly eng mnts, F&R STBs w/ DR brkts, poly sway bar bushings, painted tails, SPO grills, spoiler & tips

Demitri, I'll make it easy for you to pick which one.

The wizard is much cheaper $199.99 with no CARB sticker.
The K&N is $356.99, but does come with a CARB sticker.

If you plan on getting a turbo-DON'T GET ANY! Save the money for the turbo and the kit should have a intake with it. -though I don't think you would want to get a turbo w/ the gas prices up to an average $4.00/a ga now.

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Why have more money than brains? Cuz RACE CAR :

I had the K&N and it was great, As many have said there isn't a big difference in performance, What I have found with the K%N is it has got to be the loudest sounding intake there is, My local club voted me as having the loudest SC sound between the Home Made units, Wizzaired and others, The thing I didn't like about the Wizzair was the tubing it came with, It reminded me of dryer ducting, The K&N is a well made unit and it also comes with a nice rubbered mounting tray for your PCM, No need to wire tie it to anything.
JMO
Bill K

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Handle every situation like a dog.
If you can't eat it or hump it.
Piss on it and walk away.

?????
A turbo would be more efficent that any M90

Sorry to barge in on this topic but, I have a drop in K&N filter. I just went and got a 2.5 cat back magnaflow exaust. Should I get an intake or is it good the way it is?

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2007 supercharged GT Mods: 3.5, K&N intake, AL104s, 180* t-stat, Overkilled PCM, SD headers, 2.5" Magnaflow catback, Aeroforce, Oil pressure, and Boost gauges.

Also will the 57 series FIPK from K&N fit an 07. It says it fits up to 05.

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2007 supercharged GT Mods: 3.5, K&N intake, AL104s, 180* t-stat, Overkilled PCM, SD headers, 2.5" Magnaflow catback, Aeroforce, Oil pressure, and Boost gauges.

Yes it should. I installed mine on my 06 with no problem.

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06 GT *Overkill PCM*K&N CAI*180 T-Stat*Don's brackets w/ GMPP Strut Tower Braces*LED Tails*6000K HID w/ wbody relay kit (mod'ed for +06)*USA Spec iPod Interface w/ iPhone*Kicker L5 12"

Red, If I was you I would do a DP first. You should be ok with an intake but don't change pulleys without scanning first. The less restrictive the intake, the more air the SC can move with the same pulley. Get all the air you can without changing pulleys. If you still aren't getting kr then drop your pulley size. The problem I ran into was because I put on a 3.4" pulley before changing the intake. When I did change the intake I started moving way more air and had tons of KR. I've now got a few more mods and move more air than I can use with a 3.6", lol. I still want to run the 3.4" but I will probably need more mods or I guess I could put the stock intake on, lol.

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39# inj, LQ4, FWI, Jardine exh, OBX hdrs, PT, AL104s, PRJ Wires, DEI boots, 180 stat, 3.4 MPS, MSP poly eng mnts, F&R STBs w/ DR brkts, poly sway bar bushings, painted tails, SPO grills, spoiler & tips

Gut the centre section of the stock airbox, put a high flow panel filter in and you've got a good performing intake that cost you $50 and an hour of your time at most.

On 04+ GPs, by the time you need to upgrade to an aftermarket cold air intake, you'll need to upgrade your MAF as well, which may affect your CAI decision.

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