The other day i leaned against the mute button on steering wheel and the phone came on. I shut it off with the mirror button. That night I ran out to my car to get my phone and as soon as i opened the doors, i could hear static coming through my speakers. The key never went in my ignition.. radio was off.... i unlocked doors, opened em, and there was the noise. I am guessing i didnt turn the phone off correctly? Whats the cure to this annoying shit? I can hear my engine through it if i have my radio off going down the highway.

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2004 Comp G

Was this static a very low "buzz" type noise? If so, I think it's a "normal" noise, in that it seems to be there when there is some sort of electrical activity in the car. If you turn the key in our 04s (two of them) to "ACC" but leave the radio off, you can hear this noise. If you shut the car off, turn the radio off, and then open the door, you hear the noise. If you're just sitting in the car with nothing going on, and hit the key fob to lock or unlock the doors, you hear the noise. It's always been there whenever there is an "electrical event" in the car, and it always puzzled me.

However, you're comment about hearing your engine in the static on the road doesn't seem to be the same thing that I'm noticing. Or at least, I never noticed that aspect of it (Guess who'll be listening for that now?)

funny how i never really heard it til now. is it possible for hearing to get better at old age?

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2004 Comp G

There is a fix for static coming out of one of the rear speakers if you have a Monsoon amp/setup. I didn't see you specify a speaker, so I thought I would just mention this. I had this problem before I put aftermarket amp/deck, didn't know there was a fix til many years later.

Just pointing this out, in case it touches base with your problem!

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T66 Turbo,3" downpipes, oversized A2A,Stg3 heads/cam,hv3,built trans,bilstein struts,ssc springs,gxp brakes,pace car spoiler(1of3??),lots more.. dyno'd @ 421WHP~13lbs boost on OLD setup. New = ???

I have the same thing in my 04 GP GT2 with the monsoon system. I noticed it right away when I first got the car over a year ago. I just ignore it. I would describe it as a faint white noise heard through all the speakers at all times even with the car off. Nothing to worry about. Not sure about the engine noise interference though

There is a fix for that static.. From what I remember reading, it's a simple fix. May as well fix it if it's annoying you.

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T66 Turbo,3" downpipes, oversized A2A,Stg3 heads/cam,hv3,built trans,bilstein struts,ssc springs,gxp brakes,pace car spoiler(1of3??),lots more.. dyno'd @ 421WHP~13lbs boost on OLD setup. New = ???

Mine is coming from the drivers speaker and its been like that from day one..

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Never argue with an idiot, he will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.

My rear speakers do it. But it just doesn't hiss. It plays music as loud as the stereo can handle and then cuts in and out.

Kindle Fire: The Keyboard Sucks, So Please Forgive Mass Misspelling

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what is the fix?

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2004 Comp G

#03-08-44-015: Buzz Noise Heard in Left Rear Speaker (Re-pin Speaker Circuits to New Location) - (Aug 25, 2003)


Subject: Buzz Noise Heard in Left Rear Speaker (Re-pin Speaker Circuits to New Location)


Models: 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix

with Custom (Monsoon) Speaker System (RPO U87)




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Condition
Some customers may comment on a buzz type noise coming from the left rear speaker. This buzz noise occurs with the key off, radio off and when the interior lights are theater dimming.

Cause
The terminals in the I/P accessory wiring junction block connector for the left rear speaker circuits may be too far apart, defeating the purpose of the twisted pair and allowing interference to bleed into the circuit.

Correction
Re-pin the left rear speaker terminals within the I/P accessory wiring junction block connector to new locations so that the circuits are closer together. Use the procedure listed below.

•Remove the I/P compartment. Refer to the Instrument Panel (I/P) Compartment Replacement procedure in the Instrument Panel and Console sub-section of the Service Manual (SI Document ID #922441).
•From outside of the I/P, disconnect the body wiring harness from the accessory wiring junction block. Pull the harness away from the block for access.
•From inside the I/P compartment opening:
3.1. Remove the junction block bolt.

3.2. Disconnect the I/P wiring harness from the accessory wiring junction block.

•Disengage the junction block tabs from the passenger knee bolster. Pull the junction block away from the I/P.




•On the I/P harness I/P connector (black):
5.1. Remove the terminal cover.

5.2. Remove the terminal position assurance (TPA).

5.3. Relocate the 1999 circuit from cavity D5 to cavity C12.

5.4. Relocate the 599 circuit from cavity B7 to cavity A11.

5.5. Install the terminal position assurance (TPA).

5.6. Install the terminal cover.





•On the body harness I/P connector (gray):
6.1. Remove the terminal cover.

6.2. Remove the terminal position assurance (TPA).

6.3. Relocate the 1999 circuit from cavity D8 to cavity C1.

6.4. Relocate the 599 circuit from cavity B6 to cavity A2.

6.5. Install the terminal position assurance (TPA).

6.6. Install the terminal cover.

•Seat the bottom junction block tabs and snap the top of the junction block to the passenger knee bolster.
•Install the junction block bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the junction block bolt to 10 N·m(89 lb in).

•Connect the I/P wiring harness to the accessory wiring junction block.
Tighten
Tighten the connector bolt to 2.5 N·m(22 lb in).

•Connect the body wiring harness to the accessory wiring junction block.
Tighten
Tighten the connector bolt to 2.5 N·m(22 lb in).

•Install the I/P compartment. Refer to the Instrument Panel (I/P) Compartment Replacement procedure in the Instrument Panel and Console sub-section of the Service Manual (SI Document ID #922441).
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

N6632
Wiring and/or Connector, Vehicle Entertainment -- Repair or Replace
Use published labor time

C2160
Box, Compartment (I/P) -- Replace
Use published labor time




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T66 Turbo,3" downpipes, oversized A2A,Stg3 heads/cam,hv3,built trans,bilstein struts,ssc springs,gxp brakes,pace car spoiler(1of3??),lots more.. dyno'd @ 421WHP~13lbs boost on OLD setup. New = ???