Here is a list of mod and other wirte ups that I have copied from CGP.
Thanks to gp2004_compg for this info.
For all those that are just getting started and anyone with more info please post.
Mods that have the following will denote where the can be used:
S/C = GTP mod
N/A = GT (normaly aspirated) mod
LFMI = Looking for more info, Please post or pm.
1)
S/C & N/A Buy a SCANNER This gen does not react the same to mods as the previous gen did. Don't make changes without knowing what your doing to your engine.
Available Scanners:
LS1M = uses Palm and does all of the basic functions, including 0-60 timer.
Auto Tap (Atap)= Can be used with a Laptop or a Palm, scans everything
Alex Pepper = Needs a Laptop, does everything including Case Learn
Scan Master = Independent unit that plugs in with a screen
Power Tuner = Needs a Laptop, does everything including Case Learn
HP tuner = Needs a Laptop, does everything including Case Learn
What should you scan: Courtesy of JohnH
ECT Engine Coolant Temp
IAT Intake Air Temp
MAF Freq
Spark or IGN Advance (timing)
KR Knock Retard
O2 (B1S1) - O2 Sensor (before the cat)
LTFT Long term fuel trim
FT Cell
RPM
Veh Speed
MAP Manifold Absolute pressure.
IPW Injector Pulse Width
TP % Thottle Percentage.
A/F Air Fuel Ratio Commanded
2)
S/C & N/A Thermostat 180 tstat is a good start swap. Engine cooling temp (ECT) heat can create KR. You can also drop to a 160 Tstat but you will set a code (SES light will turn on). PCM changes will remove the code.
3)
S/C & N/A CAI or FWI Cold air intake (CAI) and Fender well intake (FWI) will definately help bring in more air than stock. There are many choices but in the end they seem to work about the same.
4)
S/C & N/A Down Pipe (Exhaust) I have seen a huge difference with this change and it is not as expensive as you might think. A shop can put together a 3" for about $120.00 welding to your existing flex pipe. Ditch the resonator if your sticking with your stock muffs (they are not that restrictive). Also this is a good time to look at a HIFLO CAT if your states emissions allow it. If you are planning on an after market setup in the future then you might want to look into a 3" resonator or keeping the stock one. Some have complained of drone w/o the resonator.
5)
S/C & N/A PEMs or Headers [Ported Exhaust Manifolds (PEM)] This choice depends on how fast you want to go. Headers will get you into the low 12's and below with the right set up. PEMS should get you into the upper 12's.
6)
S/C & N/A Higher ratio Rockers Many choose 1.9 and some 1.8 ratio. Stocks are 1.6. Can eliminate 2-3* of KR.
New springs are reccomended. It will also improve performance in the upper revs.
[link=http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=3044837&p=4&tmode=1&smode=1]Rockr info[/link] courtesy of longituderules
Now that you have increased air flow in and air flow out. The best mods are next.
7)
S/C Pulley swap Every car (and where you live, environment) is different and without a scanner there is no way to know which pulley is the right choice for you. I have found that my car runs fine with 3.6 and I still get a decent gain in performance. Many start with a 3.5 (it is also the largest size offered presently as a presson). Depending on your climate and how your scans look for KR (should be Zero) will help you with your choice.
S/C & N/A AFC 2.2 Available from multiple sources and is an excellent way to lean or richen your fuel to help control KR. Becareful, adding too much or removing too much fuel will increase KR. Only adjust by increments of 1. Start with scanning for LTFTs at idle. Adjust idle LTFTs to as close to 0 as possible. Then work on cruise. There are many good write ups for tuning. This one is out of date do to product changes but the rules apply [link=http://www.stlclubgp.com/tech/afc20/]Link[/link]
By the way the AFC 2.2 is great way to make on the spot adjustments before making the changes permanent using a tuner.
9)
S/C & N/A PCM swap or Tuner There are 3 companies that offer PCM's. They all claim to do similar things for performance. You should research your choice heavily before buying[;)]. 2 companies offer tuners, DHP and HPTuners. Again research your choice. The search function is your freind.
10)
S/C & N/A Plugs and wires This is a toss up and I hope others will fill in the blanks. From my experience stock plugs work fine on a 3.4 pulley and larger.
From Jamhoney (thanks):
2.9 or smaller = 3 ranges colder(.04-.045)
3.0-3.2 = 2 or 3 ranges colder(.045-.05)
3.3-3.5 = 2 range colder(.050-.055)
3.6+ = Stock or 1-2 ranges colder(.055+)
I recommend autolite 103s(3ranges colder) & 104s(2ranges colder)
11)
S/C & N/A Cat Back exhaust Many options to choose from. More for sound and a little gain on the top end. There is some KR reduction but not as much as the downpipe.
12)
S/C Alky/water injection Basically you spray a fine mist of water or 50/50 alcohol and water (windhield solvent) into your engine at a specified boost to control KR. It does this by cooling the charge from the S/C or Turbo. Many have had good results and there are others that question it's benefits. It has been around for years but does have some drawbacks. First it can be a very difficult to tune properly. Second you don't want to run out of water/alky especially if you are running high boost. There are many good threads for info on this site.
13)
S/C Intercooler I believe this is necessary for anyone running a 3.4 and smaller and seeing KR. SS/IC will elimnate 2-4* of KR. A full IC will eliminate more.
14)
S/C & N/A Injectors The only swap that will not require you to cut and splice your wires (currently) are 39lb inj from a '03-04 Mustang Cobra. All other injector swaps will require either an adaptor bought or cut and splice new connectors in place of your current ones. Stock we use EV6 connectors. Most injectors. including those offered by the vendors, use EV1 connectors. This change will increase fuel into the engine and requires tuning with an AFC 2.2, Tuner, or a new PCM that has the changes done to adjust for the new requirements.
15)
S/C & N/A Cams (LFMI) I don't have alot of info here other than the basics. I hope others will add more by posting. But a cam will basically do 2 things for your engine. 1) allow the valves to open further giving more air flow in and out of your engine. 2) allowing the valvetrain to over lap a little. A cam will add more horsepower and reduce KR. But it is not reccomended to use a cam with 1.9 ratio rockers. So if your planning on going that route then plan on 1.8 or 1.7 as your max ratio size. Talk to the Vendor your buying the cam from and I am sure they will help you match up the right cam with the right ratio rocker. [;)]
16)
S/C & N/A Turbocharging (LFMI) It can be done to either engine and has shown to produce very high horsepower increases. Cost can be high but our vendors are working on ways to help us out. My advise is to talk to those that have done it or do a search. Please post with any info and I will add to this.
17)
S/C 85mm Maf Swaping stock (75 mm) Maf for LQ4/LS6 (85mm)Maf. This becomes necessary when you outflow your current stock Maf. You can tell if you need this mod by looking at your scans. Anything over 11,500 hz in the MAf column on a scan means you are outflowing the stock Maf. A simple rule of thumb is anyone running a =/<3.4 pulley with higher than stock shift points (6000 rpm) in a cold weather state will most likely need this mod. The swap is not difficult. All you need to do is in the links below.
But you must have your PCM tuned for the new Maf. A vendor or you using a tuning program can make the changes to the Maf table. Remember to disconect the battery before unplugging the maf.[;)]
LQ4 maf GM part no. = 25168491 Sticker on housing. Delphi part no. = 25318411 molded in part
85mm LQ4 Installed Courtesy of the 2004 clubgp forum.
These are only some of the mods you can do but I believe I have covered all the basics. If you don't scan your car and find out what it is doing, I mean more then a couple of times, you shouldn't start modding IMO. Engines aren't cheap and it doesn't take much to pop a piston.
Everything above is to be done at your own risk. Understand that you have to be willing to pay for repairs if you play.
I will continue to add to this as new info is posted. Good luck all and happy modding.[:D] Also please read thru the rest of thread. Many members have posted good info here to help you with your future choices.[;)]
********WARNING about cold weather (especially Northern Climate states)********
Our cars will run stronger in cold weather due to the temperature of the air and it's density. When it get's cold the air is denser which raises your amount of boost,(Personally I have seen an increase of about 1-2psi from summer 80* to winter 20*). Basically you are dropping to a smaller pulley size without actually making the change. The higher the boost the higher the chance for KR (knock). You should scan on cold days and see how your car reacts. If you see KR you have 2 options:
1) Change to a larger diameter pulley.
2) Add a little more fuel.
Cold weather thread
Common Misconceptions between >04 and <04
1)
IPW's, Our IPWs will always read higher than the previous gen. This is a fact that has been proven time and time again. If you see a 30 at the top of first or second gear, it's not that unusual. You should watch your O2 values!!!! This will tell you if you have enough fuel or not. [;)] And of course preferably use a Wide Band O2.
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m ... s=#1827838 Beyerch test 1
Beyerch test 2
04Special's IPW test
2)
fuel O2's in the >990 range will most likely put you into a special timing table that adds approx 3*. Why GM did this, no one seems to know. But keep this in mind when tuning. Adding too much fuel can create KR. Add that with 3* extra timing and you could go Boom
3)
Rotors are 11.63" stock. This is true for all models except GXP. Courtesy of Basshed.
Anything else others can think of please post.
Mod write ups
Fan switch mod Courtesy of Jamhoney & CompG2004
Fuel injector calculator Courtesy of RC engineering
how to replace coupler/remove snout Courtesy of Overkill
Interpret your spark plugs Courtesy of Old Burb Club
Tire size calculator Need to have Java to make it work.
2004 Happy knob-IAT selector Courtesy of Jamhoney & Randy
Water Pump Repalcement Courtesy of Jamhoney
Huge Mod list Courtesy of TACGP
Piston swap without removing engine Not reccomended in all cases due to possible damage to crank.
Make your own PEMS Courtesy of Walter Gale
how to for Pulley swap Courtesy of Pulley boys and trohde78
L32 Injector info Courtesy of John H.
Various mods for MY '04-05 fog light replacement, sub woofer install, Aftermarket XM radio install, Cabin air filter replacemtent, & more. Courtesy of SAM93GP
Boost guage install Courtesy of Art Bell
attaches new guages to dimmer switch Courtesy of Grandprix.net. I haven't checked to see if they work for our Gen.
OBD II trouble codesCourtesy of Regal.org
Header install write up &
Advice from John H on installCourtesy of ClubGP
Upgrade to polyurethane sway bar bushings Courtesy of Zigglefuss
How to have driving lights come on with headlamps Courtesy of Zigglefuss
Upgrade with "fresh air feeder" for CAI Courtesy of Zigglefuss
Boost guage install and wire for power Courtesy of 04Special
Best secrets to changing plugsCourtesy of Beyrech,. Blackwood and Blue Jacket
Differential install writeup Courtesy Jamhoney
Add Auto dimming mirror Courtesy of John H, Zigglefuss & URPREY
Strut Tower Bracket Courtesy of Blue Jacket & Jerry Holmolka (Ontario Quebec Club GP)
Homelink install write-up Courtesy of Zigglefuss
These tips are a compilation of facts from VHP and Crane Cams Engineers courtesy of Vinci high performance.
Rebuilding the S/C snout courtesy of Rolling Performance
Walkthrough: Highbeam + foglight mod! Courtesy of 2fast4yu
Walkthrough: High and Low Speed Manual Fan Control! Courtesy of 2fast4yu
Write up for Gas filter chg Courtesy of PFYC
Flip motor mounts mod Courtesy of Toadson and Blue Jacket