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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 12:42 pm 
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very nice work looks much better now

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:00 pm 
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NinnyGTP wrote:
No need for a new harness. There's minor differences between the two (ie. MAP, and BBV)


What do you do to account for the differences?

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:30 pm 
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looks awesome good job


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 4:16 pm 
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VictorSmalls wrote:
NinnyGTP wrote:
No need for a new harness. There's minor differences between the two (ie. MAP, and BBV)


What do you do to account for the differences?


Just leave the BBV unplugged. What I did on my SE when I motor swapped. As far as the MAP, just use the one off your L26. Unless of course it's not like the L36/L67 where the plug for the MAP sensors are different.

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1998 GTP (L32 swap) | 2000 SE (L67 swapped)

Why buy something sensible with a RWD setup when you can build something really stupid, like this


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 4:21 pm 
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nice. i eventually want to do this to mine.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 1:01 am 
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Any updates?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:23 am 
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I wired the BBV and Baro sensor right to the PCM

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1.9 rr's,90lb springs,3.2zzp,180*,Overkill,Wizaird,MSD,L32 swap,AL 104's,ZZP Shift kit,SD headers, 8K HID LED tails,STB's, Don Romes Brackets Was a Base Model, 0KR


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 8:25 pm 
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Malefic_GP wrote:
Any updates?


Na, still running strong, just moving stuff around to make the engine bay look nicer... now I wish I painted the blower haha... oohh well :P

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 5:56 pm 
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Are there any parts u didn't need from Morad? I just got an est on the swap for $1000. There are a couple of things I'm going to get aftermarket like the fuel rails.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:12 pm 
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Malefic_GP wrote:
Are there any parts u didn't need from Morad? I just got an est on the swap for $1000. There are a couple of things I'm going to get aftermarket like the fuel rails.


I think the throttle body was the same, I really can't recall. Oh and if you can, ask for the bolts that hold the coil packs onto the bracket. Mine didn't come with any, so I had to go to a U-Pull it to find a old 3.8 Motor (found it in a buick) lol. The bolts for the N/A bracket don't fit in the New Bracket.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:15 pm 
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Malefic_GP wrote:
Are there any parts u didn't need from Morad? I just got an est on the swap for $1000. There are a couple of things I'm going to get aftermarket like the fuel rails.


1000?!?!?!

Be better off buying an L32 and selling the block once you're done grabbing everything

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1998 GTP (L32 swap) | 2000 SE (L67 swapped)

Why buy something sensible with a RWD setup when you can build something really stupid, like this


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:26 pm 
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Well there is also a local junk yard selling the whole engine for $900 off a 2008, so I'm thinking of talking to them about it.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:04 pm 
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NinnyGTP wrote:
Malefic_GP wrote:
Are there any parts u didn't need from Morad? I just got an est on the swap for $1000. There are a couple of things I'm going to get aftermarket like the fuel rails.


1000?!?!?!

Be better off buying an L32 and selling the block once you're done grabbing everything


Yeah, the guys at Morad Parts are great but sometimes there's just better/more affordable ways of doing things.....i see they(Morad Parts) have listed on eBay right now a GenV for over $600....and that's BEFORE shipping charges. Yet every so often I'll see one pop up somewhere online for a lil over $400. So yeah, I think I'll buy elsewhere for now until they get over themselves and offer a GenV at a reasonable price. only thing that really worries me about doing a Top Swap and purchasing the required parts is buying used L32 heads......used heads are normally not a good idea, right?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:23 pm 
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^if that's the case, I guess I better get porter heads from ZZP

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:44 pm 
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^lol, i dunno about all that, I just know there's a lot of things to consider or worry about when buying used heads; mostly if they're cracked or warped and hard to tell their condition when buying online. And, of all things, screwed up heads are NOT something you wanna put on your vehicle

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:03 pm 
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Another reason to buy a whole motor. Most salvage yards offer a limited waranty with their engines. Plus, there's the benefit of knowing they came out of running cars. The L67 I picked up for my SE runs strong with decent mileage. Can easily just as well swap over the top end to your L26 and then sell someone an L32 block. That or hold onto it for future projects.

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1998 GTP (L32 swap) | 2000 SE (L67 swapped)

Why buy something sensible with a RWD setup when you can build something really stupid, like this


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:46 pm 
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that guy has a pimp beard

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:58 pm 
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?????

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 11:15 pm 
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somebody never looked at the pics

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:28 pm 
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^he's referring to the OP's buddy who helped him do the install for this project...the guy leaning over the engine bay in the pics with the killer beard :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 12:13 am 
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should have painted when it was all off :P

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 2:09 pm 
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t3kchris wrote:
should have painted when it was all off :P


I know lmao, but I wanted to get it running badly :P

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:00 pm 
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Just mask off and paint.. I've done that before haha

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1998 GTP (L32 swap) | 2000 SE (L67 swapped)

Why buy something sensible with a RWD setup when you can build something really stupid, like this


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:17 pm 
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nothing is wrong with buying used heads just take them to a machine shop and have them checked for cracks if they are cracked they an be magnafluxed

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 8:26 pm 
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Milestone wrote:
nothing is wrong with buying used heads just take them to a machine shop and have them checked for cracks if they are cracked they an be magnafluxed

sounds simple enough, but if they're too kcuf'd up to repair/magnaflux then you're stuck with two over $100 paperweights. I dunno, it just seems to me that buying used parts over the Inetrnet is enough of a risk by itself, much less used parts(heads in this case) that have to have another $100 or so in machine shop work done to them to guarantee they won't kcuf up your engine...then again, all this coming from someone who really doesn't know shit about heads other then bolt them on or take them off...lol

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