Hi guys. I have a 2005 Grand Prix. V6, the car has drive train vibration at 50 to 70 mph. When the engine is not pulling, no vibration. Cornering to the left is much worse. Right hand cornering is better. The rumble is worse when the suspension compresses as the car passes over a dip in the road. I took the car to a independent mechanic and he replaced the torque convertor. Seemed sketchy to me, but he has had a good track record. The tires were checked, and I put a new set of bridgestones on a few days ago, made no difference. There is no cv noise, and the drive train feels tight. The car has 110k miles. The car has always has had that issue since I started driving it. It's driving me nuts. I've had the mounts checked, and all seems well. It's obvious to me that loading the drivetrain in a corner, and during suspension compression is either changing the geometry or causing some other stress. I sure need help ! Thanks guys. Tracy

I would say you have a bad drive axle. Just because the CV joints don't make noise doesn't mean they are ok. It could also be a bad wheel bearing since that's a common failure on the GPs.

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Thanks Don. I'm leaning that direction. I thought I would jack it up, and check for roughness, slack etc. Any sage advice on troubleshooting? I don't really just starting to toss random parts at the problem. Thanks again. Tracy

To check the wheel bearing lift the wheel off the ground and see if there's any play when holding & rocking the wheel at 12 & 6 o'clock. To check the CV joint turn the steering wheel all the way until the wheel is turned as far as it will go and spin it in neutral. If it doesn't feel smooth the CV joint is bad.

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That's what I'll do. Sure hope I can get rid of this vibration. I told the mechanic that screwed up on the torque convertor replacement. I was sure it was axle or wheel bearings. Let's hope that's it !

Ok guys, I bought new replacement axles and front hub assemblies. Should be here in a few days. Any words of advice regarding the r and r job?

One problem solved, 2days of perfection, then major issue. I replaced the drive axles and hub bearings. The problem was a bad inner cv on the passengers side. One of the trunnion balls had lost all it's needles ! So your diagnosis was spot on. I replaced the hubs jast because.
The last 2 days everything was perfect. Till Tonight when SHMBO called and told me the trans was letting the engine over rev. Then essentially lost forward movement. I went over and the trans was dumping fluid on the ground. Don't know where it's coming from yet, but I dumped in another quart, and drove it on my tilt trailer. The trans doesn't smell great, so I assume it's roached. The leaks are not coming out of the axle shafts. What the he'll could this be? I'd like to think it's just a coinkydink, but having just "f'd" with the front end, makes me wonder what could be the issue. Tomorrow I'm going to check the cooler lines just for fun. Any good ideas on a rebuilt trans ? I think I'll have someone else swap the trans. I don't have a 2 post lift, so dropping the front drive platform is a nightmare. Any sage advice is appreciated. T.

So...... why was the torque converter replaced in the first place? I'd be taking the car back to that mechanic and bitching him out.

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Dubs:00 VW GTI VR6, Low and Slow 91 VW GTI 8v, Shave the Bay!! 91 VW Cabriolet 8v, bitch Basket
GP's:04 GP GT, Past now G-Ma's Girlfriend's 97 GP GT, "Project Pink Power"

My guess is something on the road punctured the pan or severed the cooler line.

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check the fitting on the cooler lines that connect to the trans i had a issue with the o-ring going bad in both of those, it was leaking really badly cost of replacing those two fitting was $30 parts from the dealer and trans oil and its easy to diy