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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 9:31 pm 
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Recently, I purchased a 2004 GTP with 80,000mi. The car lot took the car to a local shop to have the oil changed before delivery.

After my first 1,500 miles, the low oil level message appeared. So I added a quart of Castrol GTX 5w30.

I drove about another 1,800 miles and the same light came on. I added another quart today.

What I would like to know is if anyone else has had this problem before. My theory is that the shop who did the oil change did a bad job, and that once I get my new oil change, at my usual place that never has given me problems, before Christmas, I'll never see that message again.

I am going to switch to high milage oil, as I read that it can help with an engine that may be consuming more than it is supposed to. Is there anything else that I should have my mechanic look at, because I don't want to go there and act stupid saying that I think there could be a problem. I'd rather tell the mechanic what to look at.

Any help and advice is greatly appreciated.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 9:45 pm 
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I doubt that the oil change caused this problem unless they used synthetic oil. Since it cleans so well it can wash the dirt that has collected around the rubber seals, which exposes the cracks and this can lead to oil leaking.

Look at the underside of the motor for leaks, and make sure there's no smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Also the valve cover gaskets are known to fail at that mileage so you should look for oil seeping around them. Another thing to check is make sure they tightened the drain plug and oil filter.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 9:55 pm 
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In terms of the filter and all....I'm getting an oil change next week so that will be taken care of.

I know there is no smoke coming out the tailpipes and I looked underneath and saw nothing obvious and I never say an oil spot in one of my parking spots.

Nothing looked loose....so I have to wait and see if I have the same problem anytime before the 3000mi mark after my next oil change.

I'll also have my mechanic take a better look at everything.

I just want to make sure that nothing serious is wrong.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:04 pm 
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Don seems to be on the mark.
IIRC,these cars are prone to valve stem seals leaking.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:12 pm 
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If you don't see any leaks then it must be burning the oil. If that's the case then I hope you have a warranty covering the motor. Most dealers offer a 30 day warranty at the very minumun.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:22 pm 
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It could still be a seal, I am not a mechanic and don't even know where to look at for the places you mentioned, but I do know what an engine burning oil smells like.

I honestly believe its a seal, but I need a real mechanic or some more detailed advice as where to exactly look. I really want to learn, I did manage to change the supercharger oil and that helped it run better.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:28 pm 
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If it's a seal then you would see oil leaking out. I can speculate until the cows come home, so lets see what your mechanic finds.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:33 pm 
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NYC GTP Comp-G wrote:
It could still be a seal, I am not a mechanic and don't even know where to look at for the places you mentioned, but I do know what an engine burning oil smells like.



Not necessarily.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:37 pm 
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Where exactly are the valve stem seals?

When I was changing the supercharger oil, I did an inspection and saw an area that might have been leaking, but didn't think anything of it at the time.

I really want to learn about this car inside and out, I've been driving cars with 3800s for years and have found them to be extremely reliable, but this is the first time I have ever had an issue like this, so I might as well learn something instead of having my mechanic present me a bill and walk out without any further knowledge.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 11:11 pm 
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The valve stem seals are in the cylinder heads, which are bolted to the top of the motor. If they are bad both heads have to be removed to replace them. That's an expensive repair if you have to pay a mechanic to do it.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 11:51 pm 
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If the valve seals are bad you dont have to remove the heads to replace them.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 12:21 am 
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This question is not meant to be mean or in anyway belittle anyone, so please don't get offended. I just want to be clear on the situation:

When you said that the low oil warning came on and you added a quart of oil, did the dipstick show that the motor was indeed low on oil? Just wondering if maybe it isn't the oil level at all, but rather a problem with sensor that measures this (which I honestly know nothing about).


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 12:53 am 
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Have your mechanic check your PCV valve as well.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 1:17 am 
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Milestone wrote:
If the valve seals are bad you dont have to remove the heads to replace them.

Bingo. Just the springs and rocker arms. Heads don't need to come off.
If there is bluish/white smoke coming from the tailpipe due to oil consumption via the valve seals, it will be noticable during cold operation and high vacuum operation (aka coasting from a higher rpm).

As mentioned, you yourself check or have the mechanic check for visible exterior engine leaks, replace PCV as derek said (a couple dollar part), and pay attention to the exhaust when cold and when the engine rpms drop.
Another place to take note of, is the valve cover gaskets. A leak there could possibly cause no visible dripping on the underside of the motor due to the manifolds burning some of the oil off.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 1:46 pm 
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Milestone wrote:
If the valve seals are bad you dont have to remove the heads to replace them.

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I doubt that he a has a compressor to use compressed air to hold the valves up when the retainers & springs are removed.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 7:49 pm 
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Don_Rome wrote:
Milestone wrote:
If the valve seals are bad you dont have to remove the heads to replace them.

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I doubt that he a has a compressor to use compressed air to hold the valves up when the retainers & springs are removed.

Probably not, but I doubt he'll be doing it himself anyways.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 9:25 pm 
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For the price of all the gaskets to replace after removing the heads and headbolts, he could go buy an air compressor :lol:

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Last edited by Planeboy18 on Sat Dec 10, 2011 9:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 9:38 pm 
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Sure he could, but he would have to buy all the tools first.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 9:43 pm 
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So if he has to go out and buy those tools, what makes you think he has tools to remove the heads? Zing :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 9:46 pm 
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Maybe he'll borrow his dad's tools.... :razz:

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 9:47 pm 
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Maybe his dad has an air compressor too haha. Okay, I'm done now.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 9:48 pm 
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Yeah that's a possibility too.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 10:29 pm 
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You guys are weird.
Nylon cord in the sparkplug hole.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 10:54 pm 
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That'll work but would be a PITA feeding it in on the backside of a transverse V6.

I rethreaded a rear spark plug hole on my daughter's Lumina so I know how much fun that would be.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 11:28 pm 
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Don_Rome wrote:
I rethreaded a rear spark plug hole on my daughter's Lumina so I know how much fun that would be.



You really are glutton for punishment.

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